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Sieges, Decline, and Revival - The History of Conwy Castle in Wales

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It turned out King Edward I would soon need his new castle at Conwy - the first of his castles in northern Wales that had been completed.

(left: King's Tower)

In 1294, Madog ap Llywelyn rebelled and took Edward by surprise. The king's reaction was swift, but while his armies managed to recapture some castles Madog's allies had taken, like Criccieth and Harlech, the king himself and his entourage met with bad weather, lost their baggage train to an ambush, got cut off from the main army by a flood, and just managed to escape to Conwy castle where they stayed under siege from December 1294 to March 1295. They received some supplies from the seaside, but they might have had to do with scarce victuals. Winter storms didn't make the naval routes easier. There is an - unproven - mention in the chronicle of Walter of Guisborough that King Edward shared his private supply, the last remaining barrel of wine, with the garrison, "In hardship everything must be held in common, all of us must have exactly the same." This was likely an anecdote with no foundations in history (1). With the arrival of spring and receeding floods, the rebellion was soon crushed (battle of Maes Moydog, March 5th), though Madog ap Llywelyn escaped for a time, but was captured and imprisoned in August 1295.

Conwy Castle then saw one of its rare moments of splendour when the newly elected archbishop of Canterbury, Robert Winchelsey, was officially confirmed in his office by King Edward who still stayed at the castle (2). Those official ceremonies were very important in the Middle Ages, and one can imagine the curtain walls and the king's hall decked out with heraldic banners and garlands, the nobles wearing their finest and most colourful clothes, the tables set with an abundance of food, silver plates and gem-inlaid goblets. Less visible, a veritable army of servants must have bustled along the passageways between the halls, kitchens, and storage cellars.

Windows and a fireplace in the geat hall

The second, and last, such festive event was the investiture of King Edward I's son, Edward of Caernarfon, as Prince of Wales in April 1301. His birthplace Caernarfon Castle had been damanged during Madog's rebellion and obviously was not in a sufficient state to house the royal family. The future King Edward II was granted the royal revenues of the king's lands in Wales and received the homage of the Welsh leaders. This was to give the young prince an income of his own and the Welsh a focus of worship and service. During his reign, King Edward II would establish cordial relationships with several Welsh leaders and accepted a number of Welsh nobles in his household.

(Left: Chapel Tower)

We've seen in the first post that Conwy Castle continued to be in various stages of bad repair since the 14th century, but some parts must have been habitable when King Richard II fled there in 1399. But surely, his stay in the castle was not accompagnied by garlands and heralds, and splendid meals with the nobles of the realm, most of whom had shifted their allegiance to Henry of Bolingbroke Duke of Lancaster, the future Henry IV (3).

Richard's reign had always been unruly due to internal stife between some noble houses who used the king's minority to gain influence. When he finally came of age, Richard tried to assert his power but alienated some of the leading families by his harsh course. The relationship with France was more than a bit uneasy, too. When Richard refused to recall the exiled Henry of Bolingbroke after the death of his father - maybe fearing the rival claim of a man assisted by the Lancaster wealth (and with a son and heir, while Richard had no offspring) - it was the straw that broke the camel's back. While Richard launched an expedition to Ireland where the Anglo-Irish lords whom Richard II had forced into submission in 1395 rebelled again, Henry returned from France and soon gathered a large number of followers, among them Henry Percy Duke of Northumberland.

When King Richard II returned, he found most of the nobles allied against him. He sought refuge in Conwy Castle where he met with the Duke of Northumberland who acted as Bolingbroke's emissary on August 12, 1399. Percy swore that no harm would come to the king if he surrendered (4), an act that may have taken place in the chapel. Richard did surrender and was taken to London where he abdicated as king. He was then transfered to Pontefract castle where he died in February 1400, after a rising to restore him failed. Bolingbroke was crowned as King Henry IV in October 1399.

The range of the royal rooms

Conwy Castle remained in the focus of history. Ony a few months after Henry ascended the throne, the Welsh rose for the umptieth time, this time under Owain Glyn Dŵr. Two cousins of Owain, Rhys and Gwilym ap Twdwr, disguised themselves as carpenters and by that ruse gained entrance into the castle (March 1401). They killed the guards, opened the gate for their men and took control of the place. The rebels also managed to capture the walled town. They held out for several months before they negotiated a surrender that included a royal pardon for the leaders by King Henry IV. Yet, their capture of Conwy lent new impetus to Owain's rebellion. The townspeople, mostly of English descent, claimed a totally unrealistic damage repair that was never paid.

The upper floor of the great hall

Little is known about Conwy Castle during the War of the Roses where it never played a significant role. The next time Conwy comes into focus is during the reign of King Henry VIII when the castle and town walls were repaired in the 1520ies. The castle was used a prison and armament store. Moreover, the royal rooms in the inner bailey got an overhaul that pointed at a use as residence for a future prince of Wales. But the political focus had shifted away from the unruly border regions, and with a king of Welsh descent on the throne, big whopping castles like Conwy were no longer needed. The antiquarian William Camden reported in 1586 that the town of Conwy was but thinly inhabited.

(right: Stockhouse Tower)

King Charles I finally had enough of ruins in bad repair and sold Conwy Castle to Edward, 1st Baron of Conway and Secretary of State, in 1627. The purchase sum was £ 100 (5), but I doubt it was a snap, considering all those leaking roofs, broken floorboards, and tumbling support arches. No wonder then that his son got rid of the thing when he had the chance. Said chance came in the person of John Williams, Archbishop of York, Welsh-born and a stout royalist. Williams had parts of the castle repaired, garrisoned and provisioned out of his own pocket, though King Charles promised to refund him. The king also promised that no other officer would be set over Williams until the royal debts were repaid. That didn't work out too well because Sir John Owen, who was appointed governor of Conwy town in January 1645, definitely acted as Williams' superior and even broke into the castle to 'requisition' provisions. Enraged, Williams turned to the parlamentarians and provided them with important information about Conwy. General Thomas Mytton took the town in August 1646, but the castle withstood a siege until November when it fell as well.

Immediately after the castle came into possession of the parlamentarians, it was used as prison and artillery fortress, but the Council of State decided to slight it already in 1655. Fortunately, that was not done with much enthusiasm; the only trace of post Civil War destruction was a - now repaired - large hole in the Bakehouse Tower.

More damage did its next owner, the third Lord Conway, to whom the castle was returned by Charles II. Instead of putting money into its upkeep at a time where castle became less important als military structures and living places, he tried to get as much money out of it as possible and had all the lead roofs and ironworks removed and sold - much to the dismay of the town inhabitants, who opposed Conway's agent, William Milward, as best as they could by subterfuge and attacks, but in vain. By the end of 1660, only the magnificent stoneworks of Conwy Castle remained reasonably intact, though open to the elements.

The way to the main gate

A hundred years later, the ruins began to attract visitors and artists interested in the picturesque. The castle appears on paintings from the 1790ies to Turner's work in 1851. Some of those paintings are interesting because the show the castle from an angle of the east barbican that is now considerably changed by the bridges across the river Conwy to connect Chester and Holyhead by a coastal road: Thomas Telford's suspension bridge from 1826 and Robert Stephenson's tubular bridge from 1848 (I did not take a photo from that angle). On the other hand, the easier access by road and railway increased the touristic interest in Conwy and its castle.

Interior of the southwest tower

At some point, Conwy Castle had come to the Holland Family, who leased it from the marquesses of Hertford, descendants of the Lords of Conway. But in 1865, it passed into the care of the mayor, bailiffs and burgesses of Conwy (6). Some restoration work was done at that time, like the repair of the damaged Bakehouse Tower.

Parts of the town walls were restored as well. John Henry Parker, Keeper of the Ashmolean Museum Oxford, paid for the fun.

The platform outside the east barbican

As already mentioned in the first post, understanding of the Mediaeval buildings and their construction increased when Arnold J. Taylor became Chief Inspector of Ancient Monuments for the Ministry of Works who had taken over the guardianship of Conwy castle and town walls in 1953. He conducted extensive research in Mediaeval sources and on the buildings themselves and discovered that Master James of St.George and other masons hailed from Savoy and introduced some French elements into Edward's Welsh castles.

Conwy Castle and Town Walls are part of the World Heritage Site Castles and Town Walls of King Edward I in Gwynedd since 1986, cared for by Cadw. Maintenance of the site is still expensive, amounting to about £ 30,000 per annum. The castle attracts close to 200,000 visitors every year, so it's well worth the expense.

Merlons on south west tower

Footnotes
1) Guinsborough ceased writing his chronicle in 1345 which implies that he died. He may have relied on eyewitneeses for the events in 1294, but Ashbee's guidebook states that the event is not proven, and Davis doesn't mention the detail at all. I don't think it would have been much in character for Edward I - his son would more likely have done something like that; Edward II was known for keeping the company of social inferiors.
2) I found a contradiction between Davies who said Conwy was besieged until early March, and Ashbee who mentions the visit of the Archbishop of Canterbury for February 2, 1295. February does strike me as a bad time for traveling, so a date in March would make more sense. Nor does the guidebook give a source for the earlier date.
3) His father John of Gaunt was the 4th son of King Edward III; Richard II was the son of Edward the Black Prince, eldest son of Edward III. Richard had ascended to the throne still a minor in 1377.
4) The death of Richard II at Pontefract castle in February 1400 - it is said he starved to death - may or may not have been murder; that riddle will probably never been solved. But we can't say that Henry Percy of Northumberland swore false in Conwy like the guidebook does, quoting the French chronicler Jean Creton as factual evidence. Creton later was among those who said that Richard was still alive in 1402, but those stories have been discarded.
5) It is difficult to compare the value to the present day currency, but at the time one of the richest men, Henry Somerset 1st Marquess of Worchester, had an annual income of £ 20,000.
6) The guidebook unfortunately doesn't explain the legal background and implications of that transaction. Since the Holland Family had only leased the castle, once can assume they only passed on the lease. I couldn't find out when exactly the castle came into possession of the government.

Literature
Jeremy A. Ashbee. Conwy Castle and town Walls - Cadw Guidebook, Cardiff 2007
R.R. Davies: The Age of Conquest. Wales 1063-1415, Oxford 1987, repr. 2000

Hiking in Hessian Switzerland (Hessische Schweiz)

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We've been doing some more hiking tours south of Göttingen. One of the areas - situated near Eschwege - is called the Hessian Switzerland (Hessische Schweiz) due to its mountains and pretty vistas. Here are some photos of a walk we did back in May.

View from the 'Salt Woman' viewpoint towards Eschwege

The dominating feature of the area is the Gobert, a musselkalk ridge which runs from the Hainich in Thuringia to the Werra valley in Hessia. It is one of the largest sturzstrom areas in Germany - errant rocks and boulders of the prehistoric slides can still be seen all over the place. A sturzstrom is basically an XXL landslide with a much larger horizontal impact and distribution of material.

Another pretty view

The plateau of the Gobert proper near the village of Hitzelrode is about 570 metres high and covered with calcareous beech forest and some rare orchids which I can never find. Several hiking tours explore the ridges and valleys that have been cut into the mussekalk by brooks and rivers. The tour we did is not so difficult, but there is another tour that comes so close to some cliffs that you need a good head for heights (which I don''t have).

The way on top of the Gobert

The particular geology of the area goes back to the border between the Upper Bunter sandstone (some 245 million years ago) which consists of 'waterproof' layers of clay and silt, and the strata of water permeable musselkalk above it. Due to the water that permeates through the musselkalk and collects on the clay of the upper Bunter, the rocks formations in the area have been rather unstable, leading to landslides, sturzstroms and rockfalls, the formation of cliffs, crevices and caves.

Cliffs at the Horse Cave

Both rock strata - together with the third and youngest, Keuper - belong to the Germanic Trias which followed the period of the Zechstein Sea. The Zechstein Sea and the following age of alternating arid times and ingressions by the sea stretched from England in the west to Poland in the east; it's nothern border were the Iro-Scottish highlands, then still connected with northern America.

New vistas around every bend

Well, back to the hiking. We had to ascend a pretty steep path until we reached the plateau, but from there it was nice going through the beech forest, with several pretty views at the surrounding landscape. Those spots are well protected by rails and offer benches for a rest. Some of them are connected with historical events or interesting rock formations.

The Salt Woman

Another geological feature are the salt deposits of the Zechstein Sea which have come close to the surface in some spots thanks to the geological changes. One of these deposits can be found nearby - the town Bad Sooden-Allendorf is named for it. The spot on the photo above was either a resting place for women carrying salt along the ridge path, or the guardpost of the wives of salt smugglers who could see far into the valley below and warn their men of patrols.

View from the Horse Cave towards the village of Hitzelrode

Another interesting spot is the Horse Cave or Horse Hole (Pferdeloch). The Horse Cave is a ravine with several musselkalk pillars and chimneys (you can see a photo of the cliffs above). It is said that the ravine has been used as hiding place for the villagers' horses and cattle during the Thirty Years War.

The Wolf Table

The Wolf Table (Wolfstisch) is a musselkalk plate on a boulder of similar material - the combination looks pretty much like a table. It is only a few metres away from another cliff and may have been used as sacrifical place during the Iron Age and perhaps as a secret meeting place in the Middle Ages. It surely is the sort of natural feature that would have been interpreted as having been created by the gods.

Wolf Table, seen from a different angle

It were not the gods, of course, but erosion. The cliff once had been a larger plateau that eroded over time. Besides the Wolf Table, there are several more rocks that have withstood erosion a bit better than the surrounding material. But some - likely far - time in the future, the edge of the cliff will reach the table and it will slide down into the valley.

Closeup of the Wolf Table

The inner German border after WW2 ran directly across the Gobert. The American occupied part in Hessia became part of the BRD in May 1949, while the Sovyet occupied land in Thuringia was part of the GDR since October 1949. For 40 years, this part was inaccessible for us though we lived in Eschwege in the 80ies.

View from the Wolf Table into the valley

There is a second loop of the way on the Goberg plateau on the Thuringian side, which runs directly on the Green Belt for some part. The Green Belt is the result of the former border which had been depopulated and served as refuge for rare species of fauna and flora. After the German reunion, large parts of the belt have been turned into nature parks and biosphere reserves where hiking is allowed, but no building projects and such.

View from the Wolf Table, different angle

We plan to do the second circular route as soon as the weather will allow it. For now, I'll leave you with another pretty view.

From Paleolithic Cave to Mediaeval Church - The Steinkirche near Scharzfeld / Harz

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The karst landscape in the southern Harz not only has some interesting rock formations and a castle that makes use of the limestone cliffs as curtain walls, but some caves as well. One of these can be found near the village of Scharzfeld. Excavations have shown that is was used as shelter since the Paleolithic time, but more unusual is its use as church in the Middle Ages.

Entrance of the cave

The cave is a fracture cave, formed by erosion of soluble material (gypsum) which left a cleft in the harder rock (dolomite) along natural fissures in the rock. The entrance had been much narrower; it was extended in the Middle Ages.

The way up to the cave (260 metres above NN) is rather steep and the 9 metres high cliff wall almost vertical. The dolomite rock continues above the cave for several more metres in the shape of a sort of ridge; it also forms a second wall on the side of the plateau. This defensible position may later have attracted an early Christian community.

The cliff seen from the way to the cave

Excavations on the plateau took place as early as 1925-28 under the supervision of Professor K.H. Jacob-Friesen, director of the Provincial Museum (today Lower Saxony State Museum, Hannover). He discovered a Mediaeval graveyard on the plateau which had been in use from the 8th until the 15th century, as well as some pieces of Gothic tracery and roof shingles near the cave entrance which point at some sort of man-made entrance hall to the cave church during that time. A number of pottery shards date to the 13th to 15th centuries. An excavation in 1937 was supposed prove that the cave had been a Germanic cultic site, but no finds could confirm that.

The way to the cave

Below the graveyeard, in a depth of 1.20 metres, is a layer of yellow dolomite sand, the weathering product of the dolomite rocks. It contains remains of the bones of Ice Age wildlife and flint tools dating to the late Paleolithic Magdalenian (BC 17,000 - 12,000), also known as the age of reindeer hunters. Interesting is layer of charcoal ash 2 cm thick and 80 cm in diamters within the dolomite sand in the middle of the plateau, surrounding a flat dolomite plate which is supposed to have served as some sort of Ice Age barbecue. The finds of flint tools and shards were most dense around this fireplace; even a bone needle survived - the people of the Magdalenian were known not only for their advanced flint technology (for example microlith arrow and harpoon points) but also for working bone, antler and ivory.

View into the valley

It would have been a good spot for the Paleolithic hunter-gatherers some 12,000 years ago: a nice cave with a plateau on a cliff that offers a good view over the Oder valley (1) and the Harz foothills. The valley would have been a steppe landscape at the time, populated by reindeer, bison, steppe horses, but also smaller animals like mountain hares and ptarmigan.

The cave, then much smaller in width, was likely not used as a permanent living place. The assumed scenario is that the Magdalenian hunter-gatherers followed the wandering of large herbivores, esp. reindeer and used the place during the hunting season as seasonal lodge.

Church and Hermit's Cave (to the left)

There are several legends about the beginnings of the use of the cave as church, involving a hermit and a miracle - in some versions ascribed to St. Boniface (about AD 732) - by which the cave was shaped. But there are no written sources about the early Middle Ages; the first mention of a church, the 'Chapel at the Knight's Stone', dates to the 15th century. The Gothic traceries and the pottery shards, as well as a dated coin, point at a use of the cave as church since the 13th century, and in case the door arch is indeed Romanesque, it would date the church back to the 12th century.

Closeup of the entrance

Though it is likely that a church existed there much earlier, esp. considering the fact that the site was used for burials since the 8th century. Else there would have been no reason why the surrounding villages would not simply have quarried the dolomite and gypsum kalk to build a stone church down in the valley which would have been easier to access, instead of expanding a natural cave. The cave was probably sacred already (2). It was also easier to defend and may have served as fortified church - in that function it may have played a role again in the 15th century when it appears in the chartes.

The cave church seen from the side

The importance of the church, or chapel, as family inheritance did not last long; after 1586 the cave church disappears from written documents. One can assume that it was no longer used as church after that time. We don't know if it was used for something else like storage - if that was the case it left no archaeological traces. It is also unknown since when the name Steinkirche (Stone Church) was used for the cave.

Interior of the cave

The interior of the cave is a hall of 28 metres length, and a bredth of 7 to 9 metres. The fracture cave had been to small for a church and was expanded sideways - one can see the difference of the new rock floor and the old floor which is a mix of clay and dolomite sand. The wall in the back of the cave is 6.60 metres high. There is a small cleft leading further into the bedrock. A vertical shaft in the ceiling gives some light. It once held a bell which has been transfered to the village church.

The chancel at the gate

The 6 metres wide entrance to the church had once been closed by a timber gate; one can still see the tongues and the wall plugs for the hinges. The rounded arch may have been a Romanesque feature but it can as well have been built that way because it fits the shape of the cave. At some time there must have been a Gothic entrance hall made of quarried and worked stones as the finds of tracework show. That way the chancel which has been hewn into a natural crack in the dolomite rock was inside the building. Today it is outside the gate. One female burial has been discovered directly below the chancel.

The Hermit's 'Cave

The side wall holds another small natural cave which has been extended. It forms a 3.50 metres wide chamber with a 'backdoor' leading up to the ridge. It is called the Hermit's Cave, though there is no proof that a hermit actually lived there. Maybe it had been a side altar like the ones you can find in the side chapels in Gothic churches.

The altar niche

Interest in the cave was renewed when Romantic painters like Ludwig Richter (1803-1884) traveled around in search for romantic and picturesque nature and ruins. Richter painted the cave in 1828 (complete with a shepherdess and some goats). The Steinkirche is one of the most important prehistoric monuments in Lower Saxony. Today the place is quite popular with neo-pagans.

View out of the cave (without goats and a shepherdess)

Footnotes
1) Not the more famous Oder at the border to Poland but a smaller river which springs in the Harz and confluences into the Rhume. Some of its seepage also feeds the Rhume springs.
2) Despite the lack of Germanic archaeological finds it is not impossible that the cave was used as sacred site by the local Germanic tribe; it's the sort of place that would have attracted a Christian missionary to turn into a church. But there is no proof that such a continuation in the use of the cave did indeed take place.

Rocks, Romans, and a Ringwall - Hiking Tours in Summer 2016

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I've already presented the hiking tours in the juniper heath near Rossbach and the 'Hessian Switzerland'. Here are some more we did this year.

Karst landscape in the Meissner

The tours included a second - and more extended - visit to some of the most interesting karst formations in the Meissner, with its pretty white limestone rocks and hidden sinkholes. One better remains on the official paths. *grin*

Basalt and red sandstone on the Blue Dome (Blaue Kuppe)

Another interesting geological formation is the Blue Dome (Blaue Kuppe) near Eschwege. That one consists of volcanic basalt high in olivine from 12 million years ago, which rose through a layer of coloured sandstone. It had been quarried until 1920, but today the area is a nature reserve.

Devil's chancel, Werra valley

Of course it wasn't the devil - who gets blamed for all sort of odd rocks that stick out in a landscape, but geological processes that shaped the protruding rock of coloured sandstone which offers a nice view into the Werra valley. But the name Teufelskanzel (Devil's Chancel) sounds more fun than something like 'Red Sandstone Cliff'.

Nature reserve with very old trees near Sababurg Castle

It is no genuine jungle, but the forest near the Sababurg has been left to grow since 1907 and it looks fairly primeval by now. The land had formerly been a forest where the pigs and cows would be driven to feed, so the vegetation was kept short except for some large trees. The sunlight reached the ground, and after the place became a nature reserve, younger trees could grow up between the old veterans. Some of the old ones look really twisted now.

Carolingian ringwall near Bad Sooden-Allendorf

On a mountain looming behind the town of Bad Sooden-Allendorf at the Werra, remains of a Carolingian earthen ringwall can be found. It is so overgrown that it really takes some imagination, though. Even less - that is, nothing - remains of the timber and wattle-and-daub houses inside the fortification. It was likely erected to protect the salt mines at the Werra, but little is known of the history of the site.

The Bruchteiche lakes near Bad Sooden-Allendorf

On the way up to the ringwall one passes some artificial lakes, the Bruchteiche, which were dug out in 1910 to cover the increasing need of drinking water in the spa town of Bad Sooden. The salt has been used for medical purposes since that time. The twin town of Bad Sooden-Allendorf is still a spa town today.

The Roman battlefield at Kalefeld / Harzhorn

The 3rd century battlefield at Kalefeld / Harzhorn, where Romans fought against Germans and which had been discovered in 2008, now includes a hiking way with information tablets and marked spots in the landscape that explain the battle. It is indeed very informative and interesting. And a nice walk, too.

The Oder in Bad Lauterberg / Harz

I'll leave you with some cold water: the Oder river in the spa park in Bad Lauterberg in the Harz. After the route diversions between Göttingen and the Harz which had annoyed us for several years, have finally been cleared up, we'll plan to go there more often again.

Castles, Celts, and some Churches - Summer Tours 2016

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I undertook no larger journey this year, but my father and I - sometimes together with some friends - did a number of day tours and hiking trips which accumulated a fair amount of photos. So there will be a Back With Booty post.

Of, course, we can haz castles and castle ruins. *grin*

Castle Scharfenstein

Castle Scharfenstein near Leinefelde in Thuringia dates to the early 13th century, though it suffered from a severe fire in the 1430ies and was rebuilt in a more moderate scale. Like so many historical buildings in the former GDR it was neglected, but restoration is going on since 2006 and by now the castle is in pretty good repair.

Castle Altenstein near Bad Sooden-Allendorf

The castle is known as Altenstein (Old Rock) or Altenburg (Old Castle). It's a pretty obscure 14th century castle, and I couldn't find much information about its history. Its lords were vassals of the landgraves of Thuringia in the 15th century, but the castle eventually fell to Hessia. It was returned to the county of Thuringia after WW2. Today, only some ruins are hidden in the woods.

The great hall of Castle Grebenstein

The walls of the impressive great hall (palas) of Castle Grebenstein near Kassel still survive. The 13th century castle played an important role in the ongoing quarrels between the landgraves of Hessia, the archbishops of Mainz and the landgraves of Thuringia. It was in possession of the Counts of Everstein in the late 13th century who also held Castle Polle at the Weser. Thus Castle Grebenstein is another knot in the net of the connections of local noble families.

Remains of Castle Greene

The keep of Castle Greene has been restored like in many other castles, but only some ruins are left of the curtain walls and other buildings. The castle controlled the river Leine and has seen a fair amount of interesting history which I'll have to hunt down.

Castle Tannenburg on a hazy summer day

This one, situated near the village of Nentershausen in Hessia, has been restored and offers a nice place for weddings and other celebrations. They also serve Mediaeval food, though adapted to modern tastes - you can get coffee. *grin* When I asked for a guidebook, the reply was that some historians are working on it but it'll take time because there are so many contradictory sources. I know that problem only too well.

Castle Sachsenburg in the Harz mountains

Of the famous Castle Sachsenburg near Walkenried, one of the main Harz fortresses of the emperor Heinrich IV, only a few ruins remain. He was forced to dismantle the castle after the peace with the rebellious Saxon nobles, and it was never restored. Though I'm sure there is more hiding under the earth than one can see - a bit of archaeogical digging should prove interesting. Anyone got the funds? ;-)

We also revisited two castles.

Castle Weidelsburg, the western hall which had been scaffolded in during our first visit

When I visited the Weidelsburg in 2008, repair work had been going on and the western keep had been scaffolded in. I wanted to return once the whole sandblasting, mortar replacing and cleaning of brambles in the zwinger would be done with. The castle looks really nice now - and it was impressive already before.

Hanstein Castle

The Hanstein is not so far from where I live, so it was not a big deal to go there again with my new camera. The posts about that castle need to be rewritten, and I could do with some additional photos.

Remains of the palatine seat in Gelnhausen

Another visit brought us to the palatine seat in Gelnhausen. It played an important role in the history of the Staufen family (esp. in the feud of the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa with Heinrich the Lion), which is why I wanted some photos of that one for a long time. I had been there as child, so it was a trip down the memory lane as well. It seemed larger to me back then.

There was more than castles, of course.

Glauberg, the tumulus

On the way back from Gelnhausen we stopped at the famous Celtic Museum on the Glauberg. That's another place that had been on my wish list for quite some time. Those Celts are just fascinating.

Glauberg, head shot of the famous statue

And here's the guy which graces the cover of at least two thirds of all books about the Celts, the 'Celtic prince with the leaf crown'. The statue probably stood on top of the tumulus once; now it is inside the museum. I was surprised that the guy isn't much taller than I am - somehow I got a mental image of a 8-10 feet tall statue.

The Romanesque church of Wahlshausen monastery

St. Mary's Church in Wilhelmshausen near Kassel is all that remains of the monastery of Wahlshausen. It is another of those pretty Romanesque churches you can find in German villages. It is also the burial site of the last Lord of Sichelnstein, Bardo, who died in 1239 (though the tomb doesn't remain).

Salzwedel, the castle keep, with the Monk's Church in the background left

Salzwedel had been an important town involved in the salt trade in Mediaeval times, and member of the Hanseatic League. Unfortunately, it was situated in the GDR and thus neglected. Much has been done after the reunion, but it can't rival its big sister Lüneburg.

Salzwedel, interior of St.Laurent Church

The architecture is mostly brick, typical for the nothern German Hanseatic towns. The keep of the castle remains as well as several churches of Romanesque and Gothic style. But else the place is rather quiet, and some houses still in bad need of repair.

Arendsee monastery, the church

The Benedictine monastery (or rather, nunnery) in Arendsee was founded in 1183. It is a beautiful example of Romanesque brick architecture. The church survives intact, but of the other buildings only ruins remain. Pretty, picturesque ruins on a hill at a lake that shone with a clear blue on that sunny afternoon.

Arendsee, remains of the monastery buildings

Lovely and peaceful.

Don't miss the second post about our summer tours below. That one gives glimpses into our hiking tours.

The Volcano that Burped - The Blue Dome near Eschwege

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The Blue Dome (Blaue Kuppe) near Eschwege in northern Hessia is an interesting geological feature. It is a 10-12 million year old volcano that never really erupted but got stuck in the surrounding sandstone instead. The area was used as quarry from the 17th to th 20th century which shaped most of the bizarre rock formations. Today it is a Nature Reserve.

Blue Dome, view into the south bassin

We have to go back in time a bit. The uppermost rock layer in the area is sandstone which got deposed there during the Triassic period (250-200 million years ago). It's the same strata that can be found in other places along the Werra / Weser river - the Blue Dome is only a few miles from the Werra (1).

The north bassin (with sheep)

Some 12 million years ago, a volcano started its way up through the sandstone. This happened frequently in the area - the Meissner mountains include layers of basalt from volcanic activity during that time. But in case of the Blue Dome, the volcano never truly erupted.

Detail shot of the south bassin

Instead, the volcano just burped, so to speak, leaving behind three conduits of basalt among the sandstone. The magma got stuck in the sandstone strata where it cooled into the usual longish hexagonal pieces. Only a bit of tuff reached the surface.

Basalt and buchite (right), tilted by shifting of the ground

The surrounding sandstone was changed by the heat and pressure; the quartz molecules in the stone turned to a molten glass stone called buchite, also known as 'fried sandstone'. The basalt is rich in olivine (a magnesium iron silicate), which gives a ochre tinge to the usually blueish basalt (2).

Closeup of the olivine basalt

What once was a perfect dome eroded over time. Further changes were made by quarrying the sandstone and basalt, so that we now have two bassins with remaining rock formations.

Basalt, buchite, sandstone, and a tuff layer on top

The rock formations and their interesting genesis already attracted the naturalist and explorer Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859). I couldn't find the exact date of his visit, but since he studied in Göttingen, it could have been some time around 1789. He also visted geological formations at the Rhine during that time.

Remaining wall of the north bassin against the light

The Blue Dome is today a Nature Reserve because of its interesting geology. There is a way along the ridge of the bassins, but the bassins themselves are officially off-limit. *Looks if someone watches her going a bit closer to the rocks. Sneaks around and takes some photos.*

South bassin, another detail shot from the other side

Footnotes
1) I wonder if I should write a post detailing the development from the Variscan orogeny and the Zechstein sea to the Mesozoicum since I've refered to these things in several posts.
2) Olivine usually is greenish in colour, but when the iron comes in contact with air, it will rust.

14th Century Stonghold and Film Set - A Virtual Tour of Doune Castle

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Ivanhoe has been there, Monty Python's knights in search of a grail, and Jamie Fraser and Claire Randall, the star crossed lovers from Outlander. Castle Doune, near Stirling in Scotland, has developed a certain sort of fame as film location (1).

In Outlander, the castle stands in for Castle Leoch, seat of Collum MacKenzie, chief of the clan, and his brother Dougal who is a supporter of Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. It fits then, that in real history the castle was held for the prince by a McGregor of Glengyle in 1745.

If you are interested to see where Claire spent the first weeks after she went through a magic time-travel portal stone, follow me on a virtual tour of the castle:

Doune Castle, north front

Contrary to most castles in Scotland that have been altered over the times, Doune is the product of a single building period and has survived relatively unchanged until today.

It was built by Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany (1340-1420, duke since 1398), son of King Robert II of Scotland and regent of Scotland in all but name since 1388, ruling first for his father, then his brother Robert III, and finally for his nephew, James I, who was a prisoner of the English. Robert Stewart became Earl of Menteith by marriage to the heiress Margaret Graham, and was granted the lands on which Castle Doune now stands in 1361. The castle was at least partially complete in 1381 when a charter was signed there. I'll get back to the history of the caste in another post.

The courtyard

Doune was obviously planned as courtyard with buildings on all sides, but the only buildings that were completed are the gatehouse tower with the rooms of the lord and his family, the great hall, and the kitchen tower with kitchen and guest rooms. Those buildings range along the north and part of the west side. Doune can be seen as development towards the palaces arranged around a courtyard like Linlithgow, built in the 15th and 16th century.

Hall and Gatehouse Tower, seen from the courtyard

Assumedly, Albany had originally intended to build his personal lodgings at the south side of the yard (there are three unusually large windows in the curtain wall), but they were never completed and he lived in the Gate Tower.

The advantage of the large courtyard is that film crews can set up timber buildings against the curtain walls. I've spotted a few in Outlander. They also replaced the lawn with mud.

Doune Castle, Gatehouse Tower

The gatehouse tower has a size of 18 x 13 metres (59x43 ft) and rises to 29 metres (95 ft) (2). It held the lord's hall, the lady's chamber, and several more rooms. The function of most of those can only be guessed. There is a projecting round tower with an additonal rectangular tower on the north-east corner which holds the latrines and chimney flues, so the duke and duchess got ensuite rooms with central heating.

Another possible function could have been to shoot missiles at attackers of the gate - see the arrowslit windows. The somewhat older Dunstaffnage Castle once had a corner tower serving that purpose.

Entrance archway

The 14 metres long vaulted passage was once secured by timber doors and cross-bared iron grilles, so called yetts, on both ends. The outer one can still be seen. There is also a slit in the roof from which one could shoot arrows and any intruder. On the right side is the porter's room which serves as castle shop today, on the left a prison cell. The entire entrance was separated from the rest of the castle, and the thick stone vault protected the tower from fire.

The gate vault also makes for a scenic entrance to the castle to ride through.

Kitchen Tower, seen from the courtyard

The kitchen tower can be considered as second tower house, measuring 17 x 8 metres (56x26 ft). The kitchen is on hall level, beneath are storage cellars. The kitchen had an oven for baking bread, and an 18 ft wide fireplace, large enough to roast entire animals on a spit. The vaulted ceiling has smoke holes above the windows, and there are slop-drains on one side. The Jacobite garrison built a bread oven in the kitchen, but that doesn't remain.

The great fireplace in the kitchen

A staircase leads to the so-called Royal Appertments on the upper floor. They are also known as Queen Mary's Chamber, though we can't be sure she ever visited Doune Castle. The chamber plus adjacent sleeping closet and latrine were fit to host guests of high rank. The location over the kitchen made the rooms some of the warmest in the castle.

Servery, seen from the entrance to the Great Hall

There is a triangular anteroom which connects the kitchen tower with the great hall: the servery. You can see two arched serving hatches on the left, big enough to pass a roast hog through; a feature unusual for the period. In other castles like Caernarfon, the way between kitchen and hall was much longer. Looks like Albany wanted his food steaming hot.

The Great Hall

The great hall is an impressive room of 20 x 8 metres (66x28 ft) and 12 metres (39 ft) high, with a vaulted timber roof (reconstructed in the 19th century) with a louver in the middle. The hall has no fireplace and was probably heated by a central fire in a fire basket like the one you can see today, though I wonder how much use that would be in a room of such dimensions. A roaring fireplace or two should have worked better. Well, maybe they had enough mulled wine to get warm from the inside. :-)

Great Hall with entrance and minstrel's gallery

The wooden minstrel's gallery is also reconstructed. A staircase leads down to the buttery where the wine and beer were kept. The walkways on the battlements could also be reached from the gallery.

Five windows of different shapes lit the hall. The large dais window in the back where the lord would have sat, hides a little side door to a latrine.

The double fireplace in the Lord's Hall

The large room above the entrance in the gatehouse tower and adjacent to the great hall is called the Duke's Hall. It would have been used for smaller parties and audiences. The room has an unusual double fireplace which is original, but the furniture dates to the renovation of 1883. A staircase on the north side gives access to the minstrel's gallery and the battlements.

The Duchess' Hall

The hall above the Lord's Hall is supposed to have been the duchess' hall. At the courtyard side is some sort of large alcove that may have been screened from the rest of the room and served as oratory or private chapel (on the right side of the photo). On the wall is a so-called credence which held the consectated vessels and a basin with holy water. There would have been a small altar as well. The ceiling of the hall is missing today.

The duchess' bedchamber

The round tower at to the Gatehouse Tower (see photo above) housed the bedchambers of the duke and duchess. The chimney flues were not enough, both rooms also got fireplaces.

Those castles were cold; no wonder people back then wore several layers of clothes all the time. Claire's dresses are not only pretty, they'd be warm, too.

Cellars in the Kitchen Tower

Originally, the topmost floor might have been divided into smaller chambers for the duke's family and higher ranking members of the staff and the duchess' ladies-in-waiting. A man of the social status of the Duke of Albany would have had a permanent staff of some 50 people - most of those had to bed down in the great hall and kitchen.

The Duke of Albany died in 1420, and both dukedom and regency passed to his son Murdoch (born 1362). When King James I finally returned to Scotland after his ransom had been paid in 1424, he was not happy about the way some nobles had taken up control of the kingdom. He had Duke Murdoch of Albany and his sons arrested for treason and executed in 1425. Doune Castle fell to the Crown and served as hunting lodge for the Scottish monarchs during the next decades.

Another shot of the castle from the outside

Footnotes
This is an extended rewrite of a post from 2009.
1) Some Winterfell scenes of the pilot to A Game of Thrones have been filmed in Doune, but the pilot was never aired and filming of the series took place in Ireland, among other locations. I don't know if any of the Winterfell scenes taken in Doune remained in the season 1.
2) All measurements according to Wikipedia. The Historic Scotland guidebook gives no measurements.

Literature
Doreen Grove: Doune Castle; guidebook by Historic Scotland, Edinburgh 2007

The Annual Nano Post

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Some of you may have noticed the little blue counter in the sidebar that appeared at the beginning of November. Yes, it is National Novel Writing Month again, and therefore I'm a lazy blogger and commenter. My regular readers may have guessed already. :-)

The Meissner Nature Reserve in autum

So here are the usual autumn photos to go with the annual Nano post. It's the Meissner Nature Park again. I have been to the Harz as well, but those photos still need to be sorted out. October was a very dreary month this year anyway, there were only two sunny days for pretty photos during our hiking tours.

Bog on the Hoher Meissner

After I won Nano the last two years, I can't but win again now, right? So I'm busy typing along in the evenings and hope there will be some good results. I didn't need to edit too much in December last year.

View from the highest peak of the Meissner

If you want to measure along: one needs to write 1667 words every day to get 50,000 words on November 30th, counting from midnight Berlin time. Every day one hits the target, one gets a green bar on the personal Nano page. Right now I'm a bit ahead - that green bar looks so pretty and I want to keep it. :-)


Look What I Got - aka: I Won Nano Again

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And I did it again, even earlier than in 2015. I won the Nano 2016 as well.


Of course, I will continue writing until the end of November. There should be some more words by then. 62,000, to be ecaxt.

Kings and Stewarts - The History of Doune Castle, Part 1

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We've had a look at the architecture of Doune Castle back in October. This post is going to deal with its history.

The name Doune derives from the Gaelic word dún, fort, but archaeological traces for a fortified structure on the promontory at the conflucence of the Ardoch into the Teith date no further than the 13th century and are now overlaid by the Duke of Albany's castle from the late 14th century. There was a Roman camp on the flat ground north of the castle, though, dating to the time of Agricola (about AD 83-55).

Doune Castle, Gatehouse Tower seen from the outside

To get an image of the time when the Stewarts of Albany rose to political power, we'll have to sort some geneaology again. King Robert I the Bruce had succession problems. His younger brother and heir Edward had died in 1318. His daughter Marjorie (with his first wife Isabella of Mar) had died the year before, but she left behind a son with her husband, Walter Stewart, the High Steward of Scotland, a boy named Robert for his grandfather. Sure, the boy was still in his crib, but at least he was male and closely related to the king, so Robert the Bruce had the parliament enact an entail that named baby Robert as his successor.

But then Robert the Bruce got lucky. In 1324, he produced a son of his own with his second wife, Elisabeth de Burgh. The boy was named David. Baby Robert was nine at the time, maybe old enough according to Mediaeval standards to realise that he just found himself ousted of the top job (1).

Great Hall and Gatehouse Tower

Robert the Bruce died in 1329, leaving behind an underage heir and an underage ex-heir - Robert's father Walter had died in 1327. So we got the usual power struggle of guardians; I'll spare you the details and lots of unfamiliar names.

David had been married to Joan of the Tower, daughter of King Edward II and Isabella of France at the tender age of four (1328); the bride was seven. The marriage would last 34 years but remained childless.

The marriage also did not prevent Joan's brother Edward III from supporting Edward Balliol, an ancient rival of the Bruce clan, in his grasp for the Scottish crown. Edward III won the Battle at Halidon Hill in 1333 and Balliol became king. Robert Stewart, now aged 17, fought at the battle, commanding the centre. The battle was a disaster for the Scots; a number of high ranking nobles fell, among them the regent Archibald Douglas. Robert Stewart managed to escape to Dumarbarton Castle at the west coast. He had been brought up in the Gaelic speaking world around Renfrew and the Clydesdale and there he found allies for his attempt to regain his lands and his position.

Courtyard seen from the Lord's Hall
(through glazed windows, thus I could not avoid some reflections)

David and Joan fled to France where they stayed in Chateau Gaillard. Edward Balliol and the Disinherited, Scottish nobles who had lost their possessions under Robert the Bruce, faced the pro-Bruce magnates from the very beginning of Edward's kingship. Men like Robert Stewart, John Randolph Earl of Moray (both joined regents and often at loggerheads), and the Douglas family managed to build a following of minor nobles and tenants, some even from their former lands which Edward Balliol's followers had taken, and fought a sort of guerilla war. King Edward III of England had his hands full in France an could not lend sufficient support to Balliol. Eventually the supporters of King David prevailed, and king and queen could return to Scotland in summer 1341. David was now 17; old enough to rule by himself.

At that time, the Hundred Years War (1337-1453) was well underway. France and Scotland, both having problems with the supremacy of English kings, were allied in the so-called Auld Alliance. Under its terms King Philippe IV of France asked King David II to to attack the English in the north and create a second front. After King Philippe rather spectacularly lost the Battle of Crécy in August 1346, king David thought there would not be too many defenders in northern England and invaded Yorkshire in October. But he progressed so slowly that an army could rally. David lost the Battle at Neville's Cross near Durham to the English archers and managed to get himself captured. Earl Randoph fell in battle.

Gate tunnel with yett at the farther end

Robert Stewart escaped. The Lanercost Chronicle says he fled a coward, but maybe it was a prudent move - he was the heir of the king, after all, and at this point no one knew where David was (hiding under a bridge, as it turned out). He became regent again.

Edward Balliol saw a second chance, but he never got enough support to defeat the pro-Bruce faction. King Edward III could only give him limited military assistance due to his wars in France. Balliol ceded any claims to the Scottish crown to him in early 1356 and Edward III made one last effort to subdue the Scots, the Burnt Candlemas chevauchée in 1356 which petered out because of the lack of supplies (2).

King David was held in honourable captivity, was allowed his own household and contacts to Scotland. He also negotiated the conditions for his release. It only took King Edward and David 11 years. *grins* Main points were the restoration of the Disinherited, naming Edward's son John of Gaunt as heir, and the pay of a ransom. Meanwhile in Scotland, Robert Stewart and other magnates were busy playing the usual power games. But in one point they all agreed: No English Heir To The Scottish Throne.

King David was finally released in 1357 upon payment of a huge ransom (3) due in several rates. There was no more talk about naming one of King Edward's sons as heir. David left his unloved wife back in England with her brother. But he had no children with his later wives and mistresses, either.

When King David II returned, he - pretty successfully - tried to curb the power games of the magnates by granting and taking away fiefs and influential positions. He even imprisoned Robert Stewart for several months in 1368 to make it clear who was the king. The last decade of his rule was comparatively peaceful and economically stable despite the ransom that had to be collected anually (4). King David died in Feburary 1371. The Bruce dynasty ended with him.

Guardroom in the gate tunnel

Robert Stewart had used his time as regent to ensure the legitimacy of his children with Elisabeth Mure, among them John, Earl of Carrick (born 1337, the future Robert III); Robert, Earl of Menteith and Fife (born 1340, the future Duke of Albany, who commissioned the building of Doune Castle some time prior to 1381); and Alexander, Lord of Badenoch (born 1343, the future Earl of Buchan). He also married one daughter into the Douglas family, another wed John MacDonald, Lord of the Isles. David (* 1357), the eldest son of his second marriage was created Earl of Strathearn (5). Thus the Stewarts were in some way connected with two thirds of the important earldoms in Scotland.

(left: Gatehouse Tower

Robert Stewart was 55 when he finally became king, with three grown up sons to actively participate in ruling Scotland - not always in accord with their father, or each other (6). While King David II tried to dominate his nobles, Robert II delegated authority to his sons and else played the great families against each other. It worked quite well during the first years of his reign.

One problem were the English enclaves in the ever unruly Border lands (like Berwick. Roxburgh and Jedburgh) and Scots from that area who gave their allegiance to the English king. Officially, Robert condemned the Scottish attacks on English possessions but one can assume that he was not really unhappy about them, especially after the death of King Edward III in 1377, when retaliations were not to be excpected from his successor Richard II who had his hands full at home.

But matters went pear shaped in 1384. An Anglo-French truce that included Scotland under the Auld Alliance was ignored and English castles attacked and taken. John of Gaunt, an uncle of King Richard II led a punitive attack as fas as Edinburgh. Robert's eldest son John Earl of Carrick and his ally, the Earl of Douglas, wanted to strike back - against the wishes of the king. Meanwhile in the north, Alexander Earl of Buchan, aptly nicknamed the Wolf of Badenoch, used his position as Justiciar and Lieutenant of the North not to keep order, but to enrich himself an run roughshot over the rights of the minor nobility, and King Robert was unable to curtail his activites. The king's council was not happy about these developments, removed the king's authority and appointed the Earl of Carrick as lieutenant of the kingdom.

It turned out that Carrick could not solve the problems, either. On the English front, the Scots won the battle of Otterburn in August 1388. Harry 'Hotspur' Percy of Northumberland was taken captive, but his most famous enemy, the Earl of Douglas fell. That left Carrick short a most important ally and the pendulum in the council swung back against him. The guardianship of Scotland was given to the king's second son, Robert Stewart Earl of Fife and Menteith.

Robert immediatiely took action; he removed Alexander of Buchan from his position as Jusiticiar in the North and appointed his own son Murdoch of Fife instead. The ailing King Robert II's last major political act was touring the northen part of his realm to reestablish feudal bonds. He died in April 1390.

Gallery in the Lord's Hall

Robert's son John Earl of Carrick became king and changed his name to Robert, which makes him Robert III of Scotland, since John was considered an unlucky name for a king. He was not a young man, either, and suffered from the consequences of a riding accident. So the role of his son, David Duke of Rothesay (* 1378), in governing Scotland was considerable. The other powerful man was the king's brother Robert Stewart, who now took the title of Duke of Albany. Other players in the game were the Douglas earls.

Problems between the de facto mightiest men in Scotland culminated in February 1402. David had allied himself with the deposed Alexander of Buchan and contested the Duke of Albany's influence. When David's lieutenancy expired, Albany - allied with Archibald 4th Earl of Douglas (7) - took David captive and imprisoned him in Falkland Castle where the Duke of Rothesay died a few weeks later, some say of starvation, others of dysentery. Albany was acquitted of any complicity in his nephew's death, which was blamed on 'divine providence', but rumours remain until today (8).

Fun fact aside: Duke of Rothesay and Earl of Carrick are presently among the titles in the collection of HRH The Prince Charles.

A Strife of Stewarts. :-) Painting in the Museum of Bannockburn

Whether or not the Duke of Albany was guilty of murder, or condoning murder, King Robert's younger son James no longer felt safe in Scotland. Plans were made to send him to France, but his cortège was intercepted by the Archibald Douglas, and James was forced to hide out on the island of Bass Rock in the Firth of Forth. I've seen the place, it is full of shrieking birds and bird poo, and no royal abode. When James finally found a ship bound for France, it was attacked by pirates and James was delivered to the English king Henry IV in March 1406 (9).

King Robert III died a month later. Maybe the fate of his youngest son was the last stroke to bring that ill and unhappy man down.

View from a passage way down to the Duchess' Hall (which is today missing its ceiling)

With King James captive in England, Robert Stewart of Albany became regent. But he kept having problems with other members of the nobility. One particularly troublesome enemy was Donald MacDonald, 2nd Lord of the Isles, with whom Stewart quarreled about the earldom of Ross which he wanted for his second son. That led to the battle of Red Harlaw in July 1411, with heavy losses on both sides, though Donald eventually withdrew. The Stewart forces were led my Alexander Stewart Earl of Mar, an illegitimate son of Alexander of Buchan

(left: Kitchen Tower)

James met with another Scottish prisoner in England, a man I suppose he'd rather not have met: Murdoch Stewart of Fife, son of the Duke of Albany.

Murdoch (* 1362) had been appointed Justiciar of the North in 1389 and worked together with his father. In 1402, another of those border feuds with England erupted, and the Scots sent an army under Murdoch Stewart and Archibald Douglas down into Northumbria. It didn't end well. The Scots lost the battle of Homildon Hill near Newcastle; both Douglas and Murdoch Stewart were taken captive. The latter was sent directly to King Henry IV of England whilst Douglas remained with his favourite enemy, Henry Hotspur Percy until July 1403 when Hotspur lost the battle of Shrewsbury (10).

Robert Stewart was lucky that King Henry had his hands full with both internal and Welsh problems and left Scotland alone, else the king may have used the loss of several miliary leaders to invade the country. Murdoch returned after 12 years of captivity in England. James would have to wait longer, and he was royally pissed that there was ransom money to be had for Murdoch Stewart but not for him.

Robert Stewart Duke of Albany died, aged 80, in 1420. His obituary by Walter Bower, abbot of Inchcolm, describes him a kind and generous man, brave and prudent, an 'ornament of nearly all the virtues'. That is probably rather exaggerated, but it does serve as a counterpoint to the chronicles and research books that paint him solely as a power greedy monster and murderer. Robert Stewart could well have been both, greedy for power and generous, sometimes kind and sometimes cruel.

His edest son Murdoch took over the regency. Meanwhile, James was still languishing in England. Sure, his captivity did not involve dungeons and oubliettes, and he received a knightly education, but he nevertheless was a prisoner and wondered why the regent did not work harder on getting him out of this mess. One thing we know, when he finally did return to Scotland in spring 1224, he went after his Albany Stewart relations with a vengeance.

Henry IV had died in 1413. James got along rather well with his successor Henry V (11), even accompagnied him in a war to France (so much for the Auld Alliance). He married Joan Beaufort, daughter of the Earl of Somerset - the match was one of the conditions for his return to Scotland but it seems to have been a love match as well; James had it bad enough to write love poetry.

The Scottish nobles must have had mixed feelings about the return of their estranged king with his English wife and English habits, not to mention paying taxes to cover the ransom - again. His reign would see troubles and revolt, but the start was off with a flourish.

Stirling Castle, one of the main seats of the Stewart Kings

Murdoch Stewart and his sons Walter and Alexander - whom James had knighted upon his coronation - were arrested in autumn 1424, after Murdoch's brother John of Buchan and their ally Archibald 4th Earl of Douglas had been killed in France (12). Murdoch's youngest son, James the Fat, escaped to Ireland from where he stirred a rebellion which failed. King James took this as reason to have them tried for treason and executed in Stirling Castle in May 1425. Murdoch's wife Isabella was confined in Tantallon Castle.

Interestingly, among the peers who sat in the jury that condemned the Albany Stewarts were the 5th Earl of Douglas and the Earl of Mar, who some years before had led Duke Robert's forced at Harlaw.

Doune Castle became a royal possession and served as hunting lodge and dower house for the next decades.

Doune Castle, the curtain walls

Footnotes
1) But he was reinstalled as heir presumptive should David die without issue in 1326. Parliaments tended to be less optimistic than kings.
2) His fleet at Berwick, the town contested between England and Scotland, was destroyed by a storm.
3) I've found different numbers in the sources, probaby due to the different coin which were in use then. 100.000 mark silver, or £ 66,666 pound. The ransom was never fully paid anyway.
4) Michael Brown paints a more positive image of David's reign than Tranter. I'm inclined to follow his detailed analysis - though presented in a very abbreviated form in this post - over Tranter's description.
5) There was another son who died early, and a bunch of daughters. Robert had more children from a second marriage to Euphemia of Ross.
6) Unfortunately, Brown's book ends with the death of King David II, so I had to rely on the rather biased Tranter, the short albeit less biased article on the Duke of Albany in the guidebook, and online sources for Robert II, Robert III, and James I. The time is past my main era of interest.
7) Archibald Douglas, great nephew of the Douglas earl who fell at Otterburn, was married to a sister of David of Rothesay.
8) I'm not going to decide for one side of the argument; there are reasons for both. For one, to rise to power the way Robert Stewart of Albany did took a ruthless streak, including political murder. On the other hand, David was not King Robert's only son, and I wonder if Albany would go so far as to kill several nephews to become king, though his ally Archibald Earl of Douglas did attack King Robert's younger son James s few years later, probably trying to prevent him from escaping to France. On the other side, death by dysentery is not impossible considering the hygienic conditions of the time. There could also have been a combination of not exactly starvation, but bad food - which implies lack of care for a prisoner of rank - and subsequent illness that led to David's demise.
9) Another unanswered question is whether someone alerted the pirates of James' whereabouts. The Stewarts had some experience with absentee kings, after all, and Henry IV might well prove a true descendant of Edward III and keep James in England for a long time. Which turned out he did.
10) Archibald Douglas sided with his former enemy against Henry IV - not at least because the king claimed all prisoners, something Henry Percy refused. Percy fell at the battle of Shrewabury and Douglas ended up prisoner of King Henry. He was released on parole in order to collect his ransom in 1405; it was finally paid as late as 1408..
11) Henry V died in 1422, leaving behind his baby son Henry VI under the regency of his uncles.
12) The Battle of Verneuil. It was an English victory against the French and their allied Scottish army.

Literature
Michael Brown: The Wars of Scotland 1214-1371; The New Edinburgh History of Scotland vol. 4, Edinburgh 2004
Doreen Grove: Doune Castle; guidebook by Historic Scotland, Edinburgh 2007
Nigel Tranter: The Story of Scotland, Glasgow 1987

Dowager Queens, Skirmishes, and a Bonnie Prince - The History of Doune Castle, Part 2

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Doune Castle had been the favorite residence of the Duke of Albany since 1401 at latest - he wrote letters dating from Doune Castle regularly since 1401 - as well as his son Murdoch and Murdoch's wife Isabella. The place was already a fitting abode for a duke, but it was not yet complete in the 1420ies.

After the execution of the Albany Stewarts, the importance of Doune Castle declined. It became a hunting lodge while the main seat of the Stewart kings was the nearby Stirling Castle. That is the likely reason why the castle was never completed - some windows in the southern curtain wall point at intended buildings along that wall.

Window openings in the southern curtain wall

After King James I was murdered in Feburary 1437, Isabella Stewart regained most of her titles and estates, though Doune Castle remained a royal possession and the title of the Duke of Albany was later given to a son of King James II as second creation.

The death of James I left Scotland with an underage king (James II was six when his father was assassinated) and a regency again. Queen Joanna, who was wounded in the fray but escaped the murder of her husband, was more or less kept prisoner at Stirling Castle. But when he came to adulthood, James II would deal with the power greedy men who made his childhood a misery, first among them the Douglas earls. He personally killed William 8th Earl of Douglas (Feburary 1452)

The Duchess' Chamber

James II married Mary of Guelders in 1449. He died in August 1460 during the siege of Roxburgh Castle (which was still held by the English) when a cannon exploded near him. Unfortunately, James III (* 1451) was underage as well. But Mary of Guelders proved a strong woman and partook in the regency, together with Bishop James Kennedy. Doune Castle was her dower house which she visited several times.

In England, the War of the Roses was in full fray. Mary supported the Lancastrians and gave King Henry VI and his wife Margaret of Anjou shelter when they fled to Scotland after the Battle of Towton (March 1461). But their relationship detoriated when Duke Philippe of Burgundy, Mary's great-uncle, allied himself with the Yorkist king Edward IV. Margaret went to France to seek aid there, while King Henry was hiding out in Northumberland (where he got captured in 1465).

Mary of Guelders died in December 1963, her son James III died in the battle of Sauchieburn in June 1488 against a rebel army led by his own son. His wife, Margaret of Denmark, had received Doune Castle as dower house, but she died two years before her husband.

The Great Hall

James IV married Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, first of the Tudor dynasty on the English throne. James died at the disastrous Battle of Flodden Field in 1513. Margaret survived her husband for 28 years, again receiving Doune Castle as dower house. And again the Stewart king was too young to rule - James V was born only a bit more than a year before his father's death. The usual dance of regents ensued.

Margaret remarried Archibald Douglas 6th Earl of Angus (1514), who acted as one of the regents for the king, but they had a falling out and got divorced in 1527 (James V had meanwhile become king in his own right). Margaret then married Henry Stewart 1st Lord Methven, a descandant of Murdoch of Albany. His brother became James Stewart 1st Lord of Doune. James's son, another James, would become Lord of Doune and Earl of Moray by his wife in 1570. Thus Doune Castle came into possession of the Moray earls who held it until the 20th century.

Margaret Tudor died in 1541, King James V in 1542. Again, he left behind a child, and a daughter to boot: Mary Queen of Scots (* 1542).

Minstrel's gallery in the great hall

Doune Castle obviously was not in best repair in the 1520ies, since its then keeper, William Edmonstoun, wrote to the dowager Queen Margaret that the castle could house her and her gentlewomen, but not the rest of her attendants. She interpreted that as refusal to fulfill his duties, and upon marriage to Henry Stewart installed James Stewart as keeper (see above).

The castle seems to have been in good enough repair for Mary Queen of Scots (reigned 1442-1567, executed 1587) to stay there several times; she occupied the suite of rooms in the kitchen tower. I won't go into details about that interesting and unfortunate woman in this post, though.

After Mary was imprisoned in England, Doune was held by the 2nd Lord Doune for the queen in 1570, but he eventually surrendered to the regent, the Earl of Lennox. The castle and its pleasant surroundings attracted the interest of the young King James VI who in 1581 spent the considerable sum of £ 300 on repairs and improvements. But when he became King of England as well in 1603, he left Scotland and royal interest in Doune Castle ceased.

Four-light dais window in the great hall

Doune was never involved in a major military expedition, but its proximity to the more important Stirling Castle brought it into the focus of action nevertheless. During the civil war, Doune was held by the Royalist James Graham Marquess of Montrose before the battle of Kilsyth (August 1645), but after the royal army lost at Philipphaugh a month later, Montrose had to flee into exile. Another skirmish took place near the castle in 1654 when the Royalists under Sir Mungo Murray fought some Covenanter troops during the so-called Glencairn Rising which ended in a peace treaty, the Act of Pardon and Grace.

Doune was back on the royal side during the Jacobite Risings of 1715 and 1745. The castle was held by a MacGregor of Glengyle for Prince Charles Edward Stuart, better known as Bonnie Prince Charlie. It was used as prison after the victory of Falkirk in early 1746 when some 150 government 'redcoats' were held prisoner in the castle. Six of them managed to excape from the chamber above the kitchen by knotting bedsheets together and climbing out of a window. More men would have gone that way had not the sheets ruptured. Those redcoats were lucky that Doune has no nasty, damp and dark dungeon. :-)

Curtain walls

Afterwards, the castle was no longer used and deteriorated. By 1800 it was a ruin without roofs. It was George Stuart, 14th Earl of Moray, who commissioned repair works in the 1850ies. The timber roofs were replaced and the wooden panelling in the Lord's Hall added, among other repairs and restorations. I could not find out whether any of the Moray earls ever used the castle since then.

It was given to the care of Historic Scotland by the 20th earl in 1984. Doune Castle is a Scheduled Ancient Monument catergory A and open to the public (when there is no filming going on).

Literature
Doreen Grove: Doune Castle; guidebook by Historic Scotland, Edinburgh 2007

Merry Christmas

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I wish everyone a merry and peaceful Christmas.


My Christmas forest

I've been asked for more photos of my pretty Christmas decorations. I picked my wood turned splinter tree forest this year, since it has grown a bit. I try to collect another tree or two every year.

Some roe with a fawn.

The last years I've chosen some wooden animals to fill the forest. They are worked by turning as well. I got the single roe a few years ago, but this year I totally fell in love with the roe mom and her fawn (though it is out of season in winter).

A rabbit

There is a shop on the local Christmas market that sells original crafts from the famous workshops in the Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge). I also got me this little rabbit back in November. Since it was right during Nano, it may well be a plotbunny. :-)

A little squirrel

This adorable squirrel was an addition from last year. I got one for my father as well since he likes the bushy tailed cuties.

Forest with nativity scene in the foreground

Another view of the forest seen from the side where I put the little carved nativity scene from Israel. It is a different work of craft but I set this one up every year; it was the last gift of my late mother.

The Christmas pyramid with an incense smoker (Räuchermännchen) in the background

This is a heritage from my great-grandmother. I finally managed to repair the pyramid - one of the wee angels had flown off - and thus it is part of the decoration again this year. It is another fine example of hand crafted work from the Erzgebirge.

Happy New Year

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I wish everyone a happy New Year.


Kiessee Lake with ducks and swans

Here are some winter and water photos for you. :-)

The Kiessee Lake - a flooded gravel pit which had been in use until 1955 - is a recreational park not far from my flat, so I do a bit of walking there frequently.

Closeup of the swan family

I brought my camera along today to get some winter photos from our New Year's walk I did together with my father. And a lovely sunny afternoon it was, too, albeit cold and rather windy. It didn't prevent a lot of other people walking along the lake as well, though I could photograph around them.

The lake from a different angle at the south shore

The temperature had been a bit below zero those last days and the lake starts to freeze over, though I would not recommend anything heavier than a swan to walk on that treacherous layer of thin ice.

Seen from the west shore

There are rare winters when the ice is safe for skating. In summer, the lake often swarms with canoes and other small boats. There is a parking lot at the north side of the lake - just well my father can park his car near my flat since the parking lot is always full.

Reeds and the lake against the low winter sun

The surface of the lake is 15 ha and the shores about 2 miles, but there are additional ways in the surroundings, for example along the Leine/Flüthe flood canal which is connected to the lake by a weir and several basins.

Compensation basin at the Flüthe rivulet

The weir, dam and canal system of Leine / Flüthe (an estuary of the Leine) and Kiessee lessens the danger of floods in the town of Göttingen, though the road running directly along the north side of the park still gets flooded when the Leine river rises too high.

Retention basin at the Leine/Flüthe flood canal

I took some spring photos of the Kiessee a few years ago, and I also got some summer photos of the lake and the canal in my archives.

Revisiting the Weidelsburg

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I've mentioned that we revisited Weidelsburg Castle in my 2016 summer travel post. I wanted to take photos of the place after the restoration work going on in 2008 was finished (1). Here is a bunch of them.

Weidelsburg, the east keep (left) and west palas (right)

I've posted about the history of the Weidelsburg here and the architecture here, so this post will be mostly photos, esp. of the parts that had been scaffolded in or were inaccessible in 2008.

The palas seen from the north

I've changed two or three photos in the old posts and added one to make the posts look better, but overall I want to keep the new stuff to its own post.

The east keep

I also got a new camera with a better wide-angle lens, therefore some shots of the castle are better now, like the above one of the east keep, or the outer bailey below.

Outer bailey, remains of the northern curtain wall

The photo below shows a closeup of the northern curtain wall with one of the half towers. One can also see support beams for the battlements. The different surface levels are not original but due to debris accumulating for centuries. The curtain walls had been excavated back in the 1970ies.

Closeup of the northern curtain wall

Besides the restoration work, the Friend's Association (2) in care of the castle has added some features to better explain the Mediaval look of the place. One of those is the portcullis at the entrance to the keep as additonal defense. Even with the castle taken, the keep could have held out, especially since it had its own well.

Entrance to the east keep with portcullis

It was a sunny and warm summer day; nice weather for a little hiking tour, but the sun glared off the freshly sandblased walls and created deep shadows on the other side, which made photographing a bit tricky.

The palas seen from the east

The most outstanding change to my first visit was the west palas - the great hall - which has been sandblasted and stabilised in 2008. Only the outer walls still exist, but those give a good impression of the size of the building.

Interior of the palas: staircase in the south corner

The palas has three storeys. One can still see the supports for the floor beams in the wall. A staircase towerlet led to the upper storeys.

Another interior shot of the palas

The ground floor was separated into a great hall and an anteroom which may have been used for household works or as the lord's office. The hall had several large crossbar windows with embrasures and benches.

Toilet oriel in the palas

One of the toilets remains, now high up in the air (with an outflow into the outer trench), but originally situated in the third storey which may have held the lord's and lady's chambers (3).

Great hall seen from the - now open - cellar

The cellar had two storeys. The upper one may have been used as kitchen. The other cellar was used for storage. The vault has been restored, but the second cellar is not open to the public.

Vault opening into another cellar

To give a better impression of what the castle would have looked like when it was still in use, a piece of the battlements has been reconstructed, albeit it is lacking a roof which would have protected the guards - and the powder of the arquebuses.

Reconstructed part of the battlements

As well as one of the many semi-circular half towers in the curtain walls. Those would have had several storeys separated by wooden floors and allowed shooting at the enemy from various angles.

Interior of a half-tower, partly reconstructed

As mentioned in the post about the architecture of the Weidelsburg, the addition of zwingers put the defenses of the castle on the threshold between Mediaeval and Renaissance features.

Gate tower leading into the east zwinger, seen from the zwinger

The south-eastern zwinger is the best preserved one, though at our first visit, it was overgrown with brambles and could only be glimpsed at through a door. Now it has been cleared out and the shrubs growing there are kept in check.

South-east zwinger

One can walk inside the zwinger and imagine how it may have felt to be stuck between two walls full of an angry castle garrison. But in our time it is a quiet and green spot if you can catch a moment without other tourists.

South-east zwinger, different angle

There is a little restoration snuck in between the keep and the eastern curtain wall. We had a glass of lemonade-beer mix callded Radler (it tastes better than it sounds) after the climb to the castle.

Southern part of the zwinger

Footnotes
1) It was finished in 2014. The County of Hessia gave about a million €, more money came in by private donations.
2) Link to their website, unfortunately only in German.
2) Today the toilets are in a timber barrack outside the curtain wall near the Naumburg Gate. Quite useful after all that cold lemonade-beer mix. :-)

Winged Winter Visitor

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There are winter days when the balcony and the garden below look like this.

Winter view from my balcony

It usually only lasts a short time, but this year we got a colder winter. Albeit there is not much snow in my area - the mountain areas got a lot more of the white fun.

Doesn't look like it's going to stop snowing any time soon

That weather attracts the birds visiting my feeder, but it is not easy to catch the wee flurries. For one it's usually twilight when they come, and most of them are more shy than the blackbirds.

There is that funny white stuff in my food

I get titmouses (blue and great tits) and bushtits, too, as well as red robins, and the occasional red jay or magpie, but those tend to fly off the moment I go near the balcony door with my camera, leaving only blurry shots and shed seed hulls behind.

I don't want ice cream, I want cereals

The blackbirds on the other hand, a male and a female, are not shy at all. I could come close to about a metre, with the balcony door open, and they just looked at me reproachfully as if the snow was my fault.

Do something about that, will you?

There is often a bunch of winged visitors in the early morning as well, but I like to sleep in and then there's not enough time to photograph birds before I have to go off to work. Animal photographing takes patience.

Rimfrost in the morning sun

But I got this pretty shot one morning when the light was just perfect. A lovely winter day.


Memories of Summer

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Right now, the weather is dreary and grey, with rain and wind - no longer winter, but not yet spring. So I looked for some nice summer photos to cheer myself and my readers up.

View from Hanstein Castle

The German Central Uplands (Mittelgebirge) are a beautiful place to live, as the above vista shows. We got plenty of such views, a mix of mountains and valleys, forests and fields.

Gypsum cliffs in the southerns Harz

Sometimes those mountains show interesting geological features, like the gypsum cliffs in the Harz.

The Weser river

Rivers are especially lovely on a sunny summer morning. Above is the Weser near Bursfelde.

Old forest at the Weser (Sababurg Urwald)

The old forest near the Sababurg at the Weser is a former wood pasture that has been allowed to regrow naturally. One can almost see Hobbits walking there.

Bruchteiche near Bad Sooden-Allendorf

Another water photo, the Bruchteiche near Bad Sooden-Allendorf, a fomer reservoir for drinking water.

View from my balcony: dramatic sunset

The last one is not a summer photo but a recent one, but I wanted to share that wonderful, dramatic sunset.

Between the Landgraves of Hessia and the Archbishops of Mainz: Castle Grebenstein

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Castle Grebenstein, situated 15 miles north of Kassel, is another of those less well known castle ruins that dot the German landscape. Instead of the keep which is usually the main remaining - and often restored - feature, in case of Grebenstein the great hall, or palas is the best preserved building. And a pretty impressive one at that.

Grebenstein Castle, the palas building

The building is 37 metres long and 12 metres wide, with a cellar and three storeys, still about 13 metres high. One can see remains of the kitchen on cellar level, the solar, some fireplaces and scuncheons with seats (there is enough space for cozy seats in those three metres thick walls), and toilet oriels. It must once have been a pretty palas for a border castle that was mostly run by a chatellain (Burgmann). Though some additions were made when members of the family of the landgraves of Hessia actually lived in the castle at times in the 14th century.

Windows with scuncheon seats in the north wall

The castle stands on a basalt cone some 50 metres above the small town of Grebenstein. One can still see some traces of the trench, but the curtain walls, gate towers and outer bailey have all but disappeared when the ruins were used as quarry since the aftermath of the Thirty Years War. It is actually surprising that the walls of the great hall survived in considerably good shape.

The palas seen from the east (the fomer outer bailey)

There is no comprehensive essay about the history of the castle currently avaliabe, so I had to hunt down whatever information I could find on reliable websites (1). Grebenstein was one of those contested border castles in the area between Thuringia, Hessia and today's Lower Saxony, with bits of land belonging to the archbishop of Mainz, the bishop of Paderborn, or noble families with various feudal bonds (2), among them the Counts of Dassel and Everstein.

The northern palas wall from the outside

Castle Grebenstein is first mentioned in a charte in 1272, but as usual, the actual building of the castle may date further back. A villacatio (a manor) called Grawen is mentioned in a register about tithes owned the monastery of Helmarshausen dating to 1120. So there definitely was a settlement some 50 years prior to the charte; the existence of a fortified structure is therefore a possibility.

The palas seen from the west

The lord holding the castle in the charte mentione above is Count Ludolf V of Dassel, member of a noble family (3) whose main lands, Dassel, castle Nienover, and the Solling forest are some 40 kilometres north of Grebenstein, in close proximity of the lands held by the Everstein of Polle. There were several marriage connections between both families - Ludolf's mother was a Clementia of Everstein, for example.

Interior of the palas, facing west

I could not figure out how and at which feudal terms Ludolf of Dassel came in possession of either the castle or the land to build the Grebenstein, but it surely was a hot spot between the bishop of Paderborn and Landgrave Heinrich I of Hessia, as the charte from 1272 demonstrates. It tries to define the borders of the lands in the area, including the exact extent of those belonging to the Grebenstein, nor does it seem clear who held the feudal rights to which bits of land in some cases. It looks like Ludolf got caught in the middle, and the borders remained undefined for the time being.

Interior, facing east

There seems to have been trouble, though. An agreement between Otto of Rietberg Bishop of Paderborn and the archbishop of Mainz, dating to 1279, says that Otto would try to get Castle Grebenstein into his power so that it would cease to be a centre for "troubles against Mainz" (Otto got a castle in possession of the archbishop as thanks). It is not clear whether the next Ludolf in line (Ludolf VI, 1235-1290) was causing troubles for Mainz on his own account or whether he was acting in the interests of the landgrave of Hessia who was at cahoots with the archbishop Werner of Eppstein as result of the Hessian-Thuringian War of Succession. But despite the intrigues, battles (4) and a threat to have the curtain walls dismantled, Ludolf kept the castle (with the walls intact), though it obviously did indeed become a fief of Mainz, maybe as result of the peace negotiations.

Upper floors in the sunshine

Ludolf VI of Dassel sold several of his ancestral lands and castles. One wonders if he was in financial troubles, but he also had only one surviving daughter, Drudeke (Gertrud), and the line would die out with him, so maybe he didn't see any reason to keep everything for her husband to inherit.

Drudeke married Ludwig III of Everstein (1266-1312); the Grebenstein was one of the possessions she brought to the marriage. Their younger son Otto VIII of Everstein inherited the castle either after his mother's death in 1283 (5), or at a later point before 1293.

The upper floors with the solar

Otto of Everstein was in possession of the castle in 1293, because that year he opened all his castles to Landgrave Heinrich I of Hessia and became his chatellain (Burgmann) for the Grebenstein. In 1297 he sold the castle to Landgrave Heinrich and was replaced as chatellain. Otto of Everstein also renounced his rights to Kugelsburg Castle which he held from Cologne - probably glad to get out of the rivalries between both archbishops.

Since the Grebenstein was a fief of the archbishop of Mainz but there are no complaints about the transaction the sources know of, one can assume that it happend with the agreement of the archbishop. Gerhard II of Eppstein tried to establish a peace with the landgrave of Hessia, which unfortunately didn't survive under his successors.

The north wall seen from halfway up the staircase

Grebenstein Castle - and soon the fortified town as well - became a post of defense of Hessian interests in the area which was dominated by possessions in control of the archbishop of Mainz. Open feud flared up again in 1325 when the archbishop claimed town and castle as homefallen fief after the death of Landgrave Johannes of Lower Hessia, a son of Heinrich I, but his half-brother Otto who had inherited Upper Hessia (around the Lahn river) took over the lands and showed the archbishop the middle finger.

Another attempt to regain the castle was made in 1385 when the archbishop of Mainz laid siege to the Grebenstein, which ended in a defeat for Mainz. Landgrave Hermann II of Hessia had incresed taxes to refill the treasury which looked rather empty after the Star Wars. As a result, the town of Kassel rebelled and hooked up with Mainz.

The north-east angle with the kitchen

Landgrave Hermann II 'the Learned' was born in Grebenstein Castle in 1341. His father was Ludwig the Younger, son of the above mentioned Landgrave Otto. Ludwig's older brother, another Heinrich, became landgrave in 1328; the Grebenstein came into Ludwig's possession as paréage. Hermann was destined for a clerical career, but then all male heirs ahead of him died and he became landgrave in 1376.

It was probably during that time the palas of Grebenstein was expanded to the size and luxury whose remains we can still see today.

Mainz finally had enough and sold all rights to castle and town Grebenstein to landgrave Ludwig II of Hessia (a grandson of Hermann II) in 1463. The castle lost its strategical importance.

The north-west angle

A ledger from 1428 still lists as inhabitants: the bailiff, the treasurer, several servants (churls), 4 guardsmen, 1 porter, 1 wine steward, 1 cook and 1 scullion, 1 baker, 1 cooper, 1 donkey driver (the donkey was needed to carry water and firewood to the castle), 4 farm hands, 1 dairy maid, 1 herdsman and 1 swineherd. Another account lists some victuals that had been brought to the castle: 17 herring and dried cod (stockfish), 8 pounds of honey, 2 lot pepper and 1 lot ginger. The inhabitants - at least those of higher standing - liked their food well spiced.

The southen wall from the outside

Since 1471, the accounts only mention a scribe living in the castle ("one and a half shilling to make fast the window and make shutters for the scribe up in the castle"). About 1540 the castle was used as granary.

Castle and town were destroyed during the Thirty Years War; afterwards the castle was used as quarry to repain the town. The ruins have been preserved at the end of the 20th century. Castle Grebenstein is a hidden little jewel at the Hessian border to which few tourists find they way.

The palace seen against the light

Footnotes
1) In particular this website of a local researcher and the article about Grebenstein in Burgenlexikon.
2) For example Castle Krukenburg and Castle Sichelnstein.
3) The most famous member of the family was Rainald von Dassel (ca. 1115 - 1167), archbishop of Cologne and chancellor of the emperor Friedrich Barbarossa.
4) Particularly the Battle of Fritzlar 1280 where the archbishop was defeated by Landgrave Heinrich I:
5) The geneaology is a bit muddled here. Either Drudeke's date of death or the birth date of her eldest son Ludwig (both 1283) must be wrong since she had three more sons. Otto is the second. Ludwig died in 1322 which means that the Grebenstein must have been part of a portion of Drudeke's heritage that fell to Otto of Everstein. A Danish geneaology - the Dassel family had also married into the Danish nobility - gives 1283 for Ludwig as 'first mentioned' which makes more sense.

Traveling to Flanders

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I'm off until April 10th, visiting Flanders. Like I totally need another 2,000 or so photos. :-)

The raised bog in the Solling in August

I wanted to go there for quite some time, visiting the towns of Ghent, Bruges and Antwerp. There should be some flamboyant Gothic churches, a really impressive castle (Gravensteen in Ghent) and lots of pretty old houses, some of them along lovely canals. I hope there will be some sunshine.

The heather in bloom

I'll stop in Aix-en-Chapelle (Aachen) on the way, to take a few photos of Charlamagne's famous palatine chapel, and on the way back I put Tongeren - the ancient Atuatuca Tungrorum - on the list, because Romans. *grins* We can't have Aelius Rufus sulk in some bath because he never gets the chance to tell you more about some Roman remains.

A bog pond

Since I finally caved in an got me a mobile phone - a Lenovo android, to be exact - I might be able to take some additional photos with that one and post them directly on Twitter in the evenings. You can check my Twitter link which leads to my main page on the sidebar. It's not necessary to 'follow' me on Twitter to read my chirpings. :-)

Summer flowers at the Bruchteiche shores

Since I didn't want to leave you without any photos, here are some of the raised bog in the Solling in August when the heather was blooming, and two more from the Bruchteiche reservoir near Bad Sooden-Allendorf.

The Bruchteiche near Bad Sooden-Allendorf

Ghent, Bruges and Antwerp were members of the Hanseatic League, grown rich mostly on the trade with wool from England which they turned into fine cloth and sold with a nice profit. It will be interesting to compare them to the Hanseatic towns in Germany which I visited in 2015.

A Virtual Tour through Mediaeval Ghent

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Let us take a little tour of Ghent, this time with photos from the main camera. The smartphone camera works well enough on the small mobile screen, but when I checked my Twitter travel series (link see sidebar) I noticed that esp. the interior shots were not up to the standard of my other camera. But I still like the idea of taking some extra pics during a tour and post them in the evenings.

Gravensteen castle, just a few steps from my hotel

It was warm and sunny when I arrived in Ghent. And right outside the very nice hotel situated in a old town house, I found this fascinating castle. Both hotel and castle are called Gravensteen (Count's Castle).

No question where to go first. :-)

A big whopping castle in the middle of Ghent

The castle is huge and I spent quite some time exploring all the corners and rooms, inlcuding the torture chamber. Unfortunately, the historical buildings in Flanders often don't provide guidebooks like I keep bringing back home from Scotland or Wales (or the more famous German sites) so I will have to hunt down some information for a longer post some later time.

The great hall

The castle was built by the counts of Flanders in the 12th century. They lived in the place until about 1400 when they moved to the - now destroyed - Prince's Palace. The castle then served as hight court of justice until the French Revolution and afterwards housed a cloth manufactury. The Gravensteen was restored to its Mediaeval look in the early 20th century.

Outer curtain walls with walkway and battlements

Due to the fine weather and it being a Sunday, there were a bunch of tourists around, but I could still mostly photograph around them. The place will be more crowded in late spring and summer. There also was a knight in shining armour who posed for pictures with the kids.

The oldest hall

The castle is dominated by the donjon turned into a great hall, surrounded a set of curtain walls with 24 watch towers. The high double gate tower reminds me a bit of the Edwardian castles in the UK. The oldest hall (photo above) is now under the ground level of the inner bailey.

The gate tower seen from the curtain walls

When I finally left the Gravensteen I walked around in the old town, looking for pretty vistas which I found in abundance, esp. with the sun and lots of water to add to the beauty. Later I also took a tour on the canals - you can't visit either Ghent or Bruges without doing those.

Pretty old houses at the Kornlei

Ghent lies at the confluence of the Leie (Lys) rive into the Schelt (which in turn enters the North Sea) and had been criscrossed by canals called Grachten in the Middle Ages. Many of them have been filled in or covered up in later centuries, but there are still a number of waterways around, and the town plans to open up several more.

A canal tour by boat

Here is a shot from the boat. The red brick building to the right is the Fish Hall, a Neogothic building at the place of the old fish market. There are a lot of tourists from the French speaking part of Belgium around, so the guide gave the tour in Flemish Dutch, French and English. A fun way to pick up some Flemish.

Vleeshuis - the Butchers' Hall

At the other side one can see the Butcher's Hall. The quality control of meat was very important and every butcher who wanted to sell his wares had to restrict himself to this hall since the 15th century - the time to which the building dates. Today, local food produces are sold in the hall.

Old houses at the Graslei

And more pretty houses, either truly old, or restored. The grey stone house with the steeped gable dates to the 13th century. Graslei and the opposite Korenlei (not to be confused with the Kornlei in a photo further up) were the old town harbour. Today the quays are full of restaurants where one can sit outside - it was warm enough even in the evenings to do so.

Het Rabot - the remaining city wall gate

The remaining town gate, called The Rabot, dates to the late 15th century. It is a combination of gate and sluice, situated where the river Leie crosses the town moat. The name is a corruption of the French word rabattre - shut down the beams.

The Duivelsteen

The next morning started out misty, but the sun came out about mid day.

The fortified manor of Geraard de Duivelsteen was one of the first stone houses in Ghent. It started out as fortified house in the 13th century. The large windows were probably added by Geraard 'the Devil' in the 14th century. We don't know for sure why I got that nickname; some say that he had an unusually dark skin, others blame his five marriages and mysteriously dying wives.

Town hall, the Gothic façade

The town hall is a work of several centuries, as its façades show: the older one is flamboyant Gothic, the younger one Renaissance style. The Gothic part was begun in 1518 to grand plans, but only part of the house was eventually built and most of the niches in the façade don't hold any statues as was intended. When construction was continued, the style had changed and the other side got a Renaissance design.

The 13th century Ter Hoyen beguinage

The eldest of the three beguinages in Ghent. Beguines were women who lived together in a semi-religious community without taking vows (though they remained chaste). A lot of them were widows. In the Middle Ages, beguinages were often founded by nobles to provide charity for the poor, later women had to buy themselves in. Beguinages are typical for Flanders and the Netherlands where they were in use until the last century.

Yard in the Huis van Alijn

Huis van Alijn once was a hospital and infirmary, then an ethnological museum, and now a museum showing furniture of the 20th century. Well, I didn't care about rooms decorated in the style of the 1970ies - I had one of those myself - but the courtyard with its little pub is a lovely and quiet place to sit and have one of the famous Belgian beers.

Vrijdagsmarkt

The Friday Market is the place in the Ghent that has seen a lot of history since 1199, processions and tournaments, but also revolts and bloodbaths, like the feud between the weavers and fullers in 1314. Edward III of England was given a splendid reception here in 1340, much to the displeasure of the King of France.

St.Nicolai Church and Stone Masons' Guild Hall (right)

A nice view of one of the churches of Ghent, St.Nicolai, another Gothic building, with the Stone Masons' Guild Hall to the right. The latter had been hiding behind a façade from the 19th century until 1976. The old one has now been restored.

St.Bavo cathedral, the Romanesque crypt

The most famous church is St.Bavo Cathedral. The building is mostly 16th century Gothic, but the crypt is Romanesque, remains of an older church beneath it. The famous Ghent Altar of van Eyck is displayed in the cathedral, but no photos of that one, sorry. Absolutely verboten.

The canals of Ghent

Let us return to the cathedral and the Bavo Place in front of its westwork. The place is framed on the other side by another building with a tall tower, the belfry of the Cloth Merchants' Guild Hall (Lakenhal).

A tale of two towers:


Right: belfry of the Cloth Merchants' Hall; left: tower of St.Bavo cathedral

There was a competition going on between the rich merchants and the Church who could build the higher tower. Today, the belfry of the Cloth Merchants' Guild Hall and the main tower of St. Bavo Cathedral dominate the skyline of Gent's old town. The third, the tower of St.Nicolai Church, isn't quite as high. The belfry is 91 metres high, the cathedral tower 89. The merchants won.

Evening in the Patershol quarter

In the 19th century, the Patershol was a poor workmen's quarter and fell into decline when most of the industry left the town, but in the last 20something years the houses have been renovated, and today it is a very nice place.

Posts about Bruges and the other places I've visited (Aix-en-Chapelle, Antwerp and Tongeren) will follow in the next days.

Dominated by the Cathedral - Antwerp's Old Town

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Antwerp is a bigger city than Ghent or the charming Bruges, with one of the largest ports in Europe and a famous shopping mile, but the historical centre is no larger than in the other towns.

Interior of the central railway station in Antwerp

I visited the city on a day trip from Ghent - the train connections are very good - so the first thing I saw of Antwerp was the railway station, an imposing hall in the Art Nouveau style built between 1895-1905 and renovated in the 1980ies, after the consequences of bomb damage during WW2 and constant vibrations from the fast speed trains had made the building instable.

The spire of the cathedral against the morning sun

It followed a walk along the 'fashion mile' to the old town. Antwerp is famous for its fashion, but since I can get the labels I want in my home town, I didn't stop in any of the stores. I like nice clothes, but I'm not a fashionista. If you want to do some shopping, you need to plan more time for your visit to Antwerp, though.

The towers of the cathedral westwork

One cannot miss the way, because the 123 metres (404 foot) high tower of the cahtedral is well visible, especially in the morning sun. Originally, there should have been two towers crowning the westwork, but at some point the money went out. The story of so many public buildings. ;-)

Cathedral of Our Lady, interior

Like so many other Gothic churches, the Cathedral of Our Lady has been erected in place of an older church. Construction started in 1352, but it took about two hundred years to finish, so most of it is in the Brabantian Gothic style, known as flamboyant style in England. It is an imposing seven-naved building of 120 metres (390 ft.) length and 75 metres (264 ft.) width.

Details of the crossing cupola

The interior of the cathedral was severely damanged in a fire in 1533, and during the Calvinist iconoclasitc fury, much was destroyed as well, but today several paintings of Rubens as well as other works from his compatriots are displayed in the church. Most of the other interior is Neo-Gothic, like fe. the choir stalls.

Flying buttresses

The cathedral is closely surrounded by houses, so it was difficult to get good exterior shots. But I found a nook between roofs where I got get a closeup of some flying buttresses. I'll save a few more photos for another post about the cathedral.

Handschoenmarkt

In front of the cathedral is the Glove Makers' Market, one of several places in Antwerp. It is rather cozy with some pretty old houses with crow-stepped gables.

Fine old houses at the Grote Markt

More of those houses can be found on the Grote Markt, the Great Market. Those are even more splendidly decorated. Most of them are 19th century reconstructions of old Renaissance and Baroque houses, but they kept the style matching the town hall.

The town hall of Antwerp

The town hall of Antwerp is late Gothic in style, one of the finest town halls in Belgium.

The well in front of it shows the foundation legend of Antwerp - (H)ant werpen (Hand Throwing). Some evil giant took a toll from every ship passing on the nearby Scheldt river and cut the hand off everyone who didn't pay, until a Roman soldier named Silvio Brabo put an end to it by cutting the hand off the giant. He threw the hand into the river, and on that island Antwerp was built.

Castle Steen

The name rather goes back to aanwerp, a headland. The oldest remaining part of the town is the castle Het Steen on a headland in the Scheldt river. The castle dates back to the 12th century, though it has been changed in 1520 when Charles V had it altered to accomodate artillery. The keep was also replaced by a palace building.

The Steen was used as prison from the 15th - 19th century; until 2011 it had been a museum.

The Steen, seen from the other side

The Steen looks like the little brother of the Gravensteen, but once it was part of a series of fortifications that protected access to Antwerp and controlled the traffic on the Scheldt river.

The river Scheldt

The river Scheldt which enters the North Sea 60 miles further north-west has always been the heart of Antwerp, its harbour in the Middle Ages, its port nowadays. In the 19th century, more than two million people left Europe for America by ship from Antwerp.

I left the town in direction of the railway station and back to Ghent.
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