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And More Fun Tours

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The first tour was with my work colleagues and led us to the Solling Nature Park. There is an area where it is attempted to reestablish a historical wood pasture like it was common since the time of the German tribes and esp. in the Middle Ages. The grazing animals would keep the tree shots short so that fewer trees reached a considerable height, and the sunlight could reach the ground.

Mixed oak and beech forest with pasture

Those pastures are called Hutewald. There are also more oak trees than in most German forests where beech is the dominant tree (except for the higher mountains with mostly needle trees). During the Middle Ages the more resistant beech had replaced oaks as the dominant tree.

There was no clear border between land for grazing and the forest like it''s common today. The forests around settlements must have looked a lot like this at the time of Arminius.

Exmoor Ponies

To recreate a wood pasture, you need animals that will eat not only grass but leaves and shots. Exmoor ponies turned out to be quite fond of beech leaves, though the chaps here had a dish of grass when we arrived.

Aurochs rebreeds (Heckrinder)

The ponies didn't mind getting close, but the big boys on the photo above kept at distance. They are an aurochs rebreed, a cross of several races of cattle that comes somewhat close to the look and properties of the extinct aurochs by now. Though they've still not reached the original size by at least half a metre, the bull does look impressive.

Further attempts to refine the breed are made (for example they're a bit on the slim side and need to come out more rounded). The excess oxen are slaughtered; they give a very good meat.


(left: Part of the Heldra Cliff, the Chancel)

The next tour was with my father again, to a place called Heldrastein (Heldra Cliff). It is part of the various trekking routes in the Nature Park Meissner / Kaufunger Wald, but technically the cliffs (besides the Heldrastein there are two more) belong to the Werra valley.

They are situated on the side of the former GDR and were a forbidden zone for both sides because there was a lot of spying equipment around, including an ugly tower we could see every time we drove on the other side of the Werra (which belonged to West Germany). Now the tower has been prettied up and can be used as viewing tower. Though after the steep ascent - partly by stairs - we didn't feel like climbing more of those, and the cliff itself offers a spectacular view already.

(I did not get a shot from the foot of the cliff because the closest you can get is still so far that you need to add an Photoshop arrow, 'Heldra cliff here'; from other angles the trees get in the way.)

It was a warm day, too, so the cold beer I got in the hut on top was well deserved, I think.

View from the Heldra Cliff

The Heldra Cliff (503 metres above NN) and its neighbours are another result of the musselkalk formations in the area. The sheer fall of the cliff is 62 metres - no wonder you need stairs to get up to it, even from a less steep part - and then the hills go another 330 metres down to the Werra river.

Way up to the cliff

The photo doesn't do the way justice. It was worse. But fun. Though we didn't go all the way from the river but found a parking lot halfway in the woods. The views and the geology from this trip should give me material for more posts.

You didn't think there won't be a castle this time, did you? *grin*

Remains of Sichelnstein Castle

Of course there is. The third tour took us into the Kaufunger Wald and a little village called Sichelnstein, with the remains of a castle at the border between Hessia and Lower Saxony. You remember our friend Otto of Braunschweig-Göttingen, the Mad Dog of the Leine Valley I mentioned in this post, who feuded with everyone who wasn't on a tree at three? He had that one refortified during his feud with the Landgrave of Hessia.

'Giants of Nieste'

Next are some wayward trees from North America and Canada that found their way into the woods near a village called Nieste, a fact that gave them the nickname 'Giants of Nieste' (Niester Riesen). The story goes that they helped the devil who, of course, supported Otto in his feud with the landgrave, and were turned into trees by the good spirits of the forest.

And finally, for the awwww-factor:

Exmoor Pony foal

There we go for this time. More blog fodder for cold and dark winter days when we won't feel like hiking around in search of interesting places.

Next week we'll be off to Naumburg and some other places rich in history at the rivers Saale and Unstrut: land of vineyards, Ottonian emperors, and Thuringian landgraves. I'm not going to decide which of those is going to be the most fun. *wink*


Off To Hunt

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some more castles and cathedrals.

As mentioned before, I'll be off along another bit of the Romanesque Road that connects a number of churches and castles in Saxony-Anhalt that have at least significant elements remaining from the Romanesque period. Which also means, as always, a journey into history. The focus will be somewhat Ottonian this time. Otto the Great (who in fist marriage was married to Edgitha; granddaughter of Alfred the Great*) had some very dysfunctional family relations, too. Rebelling brothers, a rebelling son .... it's not easy to become King of the Germans, let alone Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, if your family doesn't cooperate and drags most of the nobility into the mess. But Otto eventually succeeded.

The Werra river near Creuzburg

The Werra (photo above, from a trip we did last year) is rich in history, as are the Saale and Unstrut rivers we're going to see. Including some of the Saale castles - you can't have a river without those lining up along in Germany. :)

* It was the son from that marriage, Liudolf, who got mad at daddy - not entirely without reason, I think -, collected some friends and started a war in 953.

Vineyards and Rivers

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And finally some photos of the surroundings. You can't travel in the Saale-Unstrut region without catching some vineyeards - the area is famous for its wines.

Vineyard in the morning sun, seen from my hotel room

Our little hotel is situated in the middle of the Ducal Vineyard (which today is owned by a farm cooperative), so we got a close look into a vineyard in autumn.

Wine harvest

Those hills are really steep; it's no easy work to gather the grapes. But the final result is very yummy. :)

Unstrut river in the rain

The town Freyburg where we stayed is situated directly at the Unstrut river. Mostly the weather was ok, but there was a big rainshower just when I went down to take some pics of the river.

Saale river, seen from Rudelsburg Castle

To cover the other main river in the area, here's a photo of the Saale, too. It confluences into the Elbe further north-east.

Neuenburg Castle and the vineyard in the evening sun

And finally a lucky shot of the Neuenburg, with part of the Ducal Vineyard in front. I caught that one minute when the evening sun came out and tinted everything with a lovely golden shine.

There Were Churches, Too

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A jewel on the Romanesque Road is the monastery of Memleben. Albeit only ruins remain, it is indeed a pretty place to visit, especially in sunshine. There most likely was a palatine seat during Ottonian times since both King Heinrich I and Emperor Otto the Great died in Memleben, but no traces have yet been found. Though it's not easy to catch those early places because most of it was built of timber. There was a large church in the 10th century of which only a few bits of wall remain.

Memleben, remains of the main nave of the 13th century church

The other and somewhat better preserved Romanesque church dates to the 13th century. It fell into decline after the Reformation but the remains still give an impression of the former beauty of the church. The crypt has also been preserved.

Memleben, the crypt

The most famous church this time around was the cathedral in Naumburg. There had been an older church but when Naumburg became the seat of a bishop, a larger church was needed. It was built on base of the older one and started out as late Romanesque (1210) in the east choir to progress to early Gothic in the west choir (about 1250).

Naumburg cathedral, the Romanesque east towers seen through the cloister

The west choir was built by the Master of Naumburg, architect and sculpturer. We've met one of his works in Mainz. The feature for which the cathedral is famous are the donator figures, a number of historical persons sculpted in stone with an amazing life-likeness of expression. You can detect them in the niches between the windows (see photo below) but of course, I got closeups of them, too.

Interior, view to the west choir and the choir screen

Usually, that place in the choir was reserved for ecclesiastical portraits, apostles, saints, maybe bishops, so to put lay persons there was very unusual. There's a theory that the statues may have replaced the tombs from the older church and thus gave the founders / donators a place of worship back.

The choir screen is a work of the Master of Naumburg as well.

West chor with the donator figures (Stifterfiguren) and Gothic windows

The last church in the collection is another Romanesque / Gothic hybrid. The monastery of Pforta, also known as Schulpforta, was a filial foundation of the Cistercian monastery in Walkenried, and like that one, has a double-arched cloister. The monastery served as boarding school (it still does) after the secularisation and thus survived.

Schulpforta Monastery, double cloister

So lots of Romanesque but no Romans. I hope my readers from that time excuse my lack of Roman posts lately. Aelius Rufus is already complaining about the long hiatus and even got out of his bath to tell me.

Big Castles, We Got Them

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So we followed some stations on the Romanesque Road in southern Saxony-Anhalt, and kept running into castles. Like this one we saw from the breakfast room in our hotel - what a nice view to wake up to.

Neuenburg Castle near Freyburg

The Neuenburg was founded in 1090 by Ludwig the Leaper who also built the Wartburg. The castle was extended in the 12th century and its most beautiful features date from that time, like the chapel. It also got several towers, halls, walls and gates to turn it into the big boy you can see today.

Neuenburg, outer bailey (Vorburg)

After the Ludowing landgraves died out, the castle fell to the margraves of Meissen of the House Wettin, who further altered the castle - it proabably needed even bigger walls. In the 17th century the Neuenburg came into possession of the prince electors of Saxony who used it as hunting lodge and added some Baroque frills. Like many castles in the former GDR, it didn't fare too well, but was renovated after the reunion..

View from the outer curtain wall to one of the palas buildings

"At the bright shores of the Saale
Castles standing proud and keen;
Their fair walls are partly fallen
And the wind blows through the hallways
Clouds are drifting overhead."


Thus goes an old folksong, and it certainly fits the twin castles of Rudelsburg and Saaleck. And the wind did indeed blow through the halls the day we went there.

North tower of the Rudelsburg in the foreground,
west tower of Castle Saaleck in the background

The Rudelsburg was built in 1050 to protect a local border, and expanded in 1150. It changed possession a few times and ended up as ruin, like Castle Saaleck, though the palas houses a restaurant today.

Rudelsburg, seen from Castle Saaleck

Castle Saaleck is first mentioned in 1140 and was for some time in the possession of the bishops of Naumburg. It fared worse than its neighbour and today only the two - partly reconstruced - towers and bits of the curtain walls remain.

Eckardsburg

This one is the main seat of the Eckardsberga marshals of the Ebersburg in the Harz who we already met. The castle was a possession of the landgraves of Thuringia and is another one that retains some Romanesque architectural features. The landgraves visited the castle a few times, so it played a role in history.

Querfurt Castle, with the tower Dicker Heinrich (Fat Henry)

Now we get to a real whopper. Querfurt Castle is seven times the size of the Wartburg. Parts of the inner curtain wall and the cellar of the Granary (Kornhaus) date to the 10th century, the two towers are from the 12th (Fat Henry) and 13th centuries (Torture Tower - though it actually was a keep and not a prison). Another tower and the outer curtain walls were added in the 14th century, the bastions in the 15th.

15th century bastion, southern gate and the 13th century Marterturm (Torture Tower)

The castle was the seat of the Noble Lords of Querfurt. The family rose to prominence a few times, most notably with Brun of Querfurt who became a martyr in the late 10th century, and Konrad of Querfurt, Bishop of Hildesheim and Würzburg and chancellor of the Emperor Heinrich VI.

The Romanesque chapel (with the Torture Tower to the left and Fat Henry to the right)

The castles dominated out tour this time, but there were some churches as well. See post below.

Trees and a Squirrel

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We got some glorious autumn days right now, and since the way to my job place goes through part of the Forest Botanical Garden, I decided to bring my camera yesterday.

My way to work (well, after I got off a 35 min bus ride)

There's a little pond, too, which looks lovely right now.

A pond in the Forest Botanical Garden

I turned to take another shot.

The pond from a different angle

When something threw something at me. And I could hear a crunching sound.

What's hiding there?

I looked up into the tree. It was camouflaged well, brownish against brown branches and yellow leaves, and against the low autumn sun.

A red squirrel, eating some nut or seed. Audibly so.

Red squirrels are pretty common in Germany (we don't get the grey variant), and in the park they are not shy; they sometimes squirrel across the way right in front of you.

Spot the Squirrel

Another shot of the wee bugger in all its bushy-tailed glory.

More pretty trees

I took some more photos of trees before I had to catch the bus home. If the weather holds, I should walk the other ways in the park with my camera, too.

Border Castles and Conflicts - Castle Reichenbach

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OK, I admit the title sounds more Scottish than it is, but some castles along the borders of Thuringia / Hessia / Lower Saxony have seen a fair bit of action thanks to sitting at the borders of former feudal or allodial possessions. And since I live right in the corner where the three counties meet, I've been visiting some of those places.

Today we'll have a look at the Castle of Reichenbach. I already mentioned the church in this post, remains of a former - albeit shortlived - nunnery. What's left of the castle is mostly just the keep and that one has been partly rebuilt, too. But it sits at the top of a mountain above the village, like so many castles in Germany, so it made for a nice walk despite the paucity of motives.

Reichenbach Castle, the keep

The village of Reichenbach is first mentioned in 1098, but there is archaeological evidence for an earlier Frankish settlement. The first lord in the area who left a trace in the documents is Gozmar of Reichenbach, High Reeve of the Abbey Fulda, in 1062. Wikipedia mentions a Frankish comes (Gaugraf) Gozmar of Reichenbach in Carolingian times, but they can't even get the date right in two separate articles and I could not find any proof (*). The same goes for the castle which can be proven to date at the same time as the village, about 1050 - 1100. A Carolingian timber castle predating the stone fortress and the 5th century 'Chattian walled fort' are pure speculation at this point since no traces have been found (though archaeological research wasn't very thorough due to costs).

The position of high reeve of Fulda Abbey was hereditarily held by the counts of Reichenbach; several members of the family are mentioned in documents as such. During the next generations, the family expanded their territorial possessions in northern Hessia, and in 1144, Gottfried, the son of Gozmar II, moved his seat to Ziegenhain, leaving the Reichenbach possessions to his uncle Poppo I. The Reichenbach line died out with the death of Gottfried III in 1279.

The troubles started when Liutgard (Lukardis) of Ziegenhain, daughter of Gozmar III, the son of Gottfried I, married Friedrich of Thuringia, third son of Landgrave Ludwig I and Jutta of Swabia (a sister of Friedrich Barbarossa), in 1185. The Thuringian landgraves had already snatched nice bits of land in Hessia when Landgrave Ludwig I married Hedwig of Gudenstein, heiress of the Gison family, in 1110. Friedrich wanted to continue along that line. Since Liutgard's father Gozmar had died the year prior to their marriage during the Latrine Accident of Erfurt (**), Friedrich laid claim to the title Count of Ziegenhain and Gozmar's lands, including Reichenbach (though I wonder what his argument was since Reichenbach belonged to the junior line ***); he also became High Reeve of Fulda in 1229.

Gozmar's brother and successor Rudolf tried to fight Friedrich's claims, but he died already in 1188. His successor, another Gottfried, disappears from the sources (usually signed documents) in 1200 and his succession is a bit unclear since his only son was too young and his nephews Gottfried (number 5) and Berthold inherited only in 1229 - the same year Friedrich died.

But in all those fun messes between heritage claims and the ongoing troubles between the Ludowing landgraves of Thuringia on one side, and the archbishop of Mainz - who held a lot of land and feudal rights and/or claims (including the ones to Reichenbach) in Hessia - on the other, Reichenbach Castle saw a good deal of action.

Landgrave Ludwig IV conquered the castle after a prolongued siege in 1220, and in 1225, his brother Konrad Count of Gudensberg laid siege to the castle again, and again as result of a feud with the archbishop of Mainz (now Siegfried III). But in the end, Konrad decided for a diplomatic solution with the Ziegenhain heirs and formed an alliance with Gottfried and Berthold; they would keep their Ziegenhain possessions as allod from him but resign Reichenbach as fief, and they would all stay together against any enemy except the emperor (1233). The archbishop of Mainz probably wasn't happy about this since he considered Reichenbach as fief held from him, nor was Gottfried of the Reichenbach line who at the time was a prisoner of the archbishop (****).

With Heinrich Raspe's death in 1247, the Thuringian Succession War between the margrave of Meissen, Sophie of Brabant, and the archbishop of Mainz began, which lasted until 1264. Sophie - or more exactly, her troops - managed to conquer Castle Reichenbach in the name of her still under-aged son Heinrich in 1249. In the end, the margrave of Meissen got the landgraviate of Thuringia and the Thuringian / Saxon possessions while Heinrich got the newly created landgraviate of Hessia (the lands were still as fief from the archbishop of Mainz until 1292 when they became imperial allods).

The castle again played a role during the so-called War of the Star League (Sternerkrieg, 1370-73), a war of a group of nobles against the landgrave of Hessia which involved our dear friend Otto I of Braunschweig-Göttingen, aka Otto the Quarrelsome (as leader of the Star League), who deserves a post of his own. Other members of the alliance were Gottfried VII and VIII of Ziegenhain, and other local nobles.

The castle was inhabited until 1490, afterwards it fell into decline and was used as quarry by the locals. The east tower crumbled in 1820, so today there's only the keep left.

Another view of the keep

* The Saxon nobles turned refugees, Asic and Billing, mentioned in two chartes at the time of Charlemagne, who settled in the area, cannot be connected to the Reichenbach family with surety.

** The Erfurt Latrine Accident of 1184: King Heinrich VI used a diet in Erfurt to mediate between Landgrave Ludwig III of Thuringia and Archbishop Konrad of Mainz when the wooden floor of the hall in the seat of the provost of St. Mary in which the nobles were sitting, broke under the stress and a number of people crashed through the first floor which gave way as well, into the latrine in the cellar. About 60 people, among them several nobles of high standing, died of the fall or drowned in the shit. Ugh. King Heinrich survived because he sat in a projected window alcove with a stone floor and was saved by use of a ladder.

*** OK, this is just an assumption, but when Heinrich III of Reichenbach joined the Order of the Teutonic Knights (and obviously gave them a pretty share of his lands) in 1219, he left what remained to his younger sons Wigbert and Gottfried who still was a child. In the years to follow Gottfried fought with his brother, his maternal relatives, and the archbishop of Mainz for what he considered to be his heritage, and that sort of troubles may have left the door open for Friedrich's claim. Especially since the Thuringian landgraves always had open bills with the archbishops of Mainz.

**** Konrad would later become High Master of the Teutonic Knights (1239), while Berthold would change his pro-Staufen alliance to side with the Pope and proclaim Heinrich Raspe (another brother of Ludwig IV) anti-king to Conrad IV of Staufen.

Sources:
Wilfried Warsitzka, Die Thüringer Landgrafen. 2nd revised edition, Erfurt 2009

Happy Halloween

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I wish everyone a happy Halloween. Don't overeat on the sweets you trick-and-treated. :)

Halloween is still not so common here though last year we got a few kids doing the rounds. This year there have not been any so I'll get to keep the treats. Hehe.

'Paradise' staircase rail in Naumburg Cathedral

The rails with the way to paradise (if you could get out of the way of the devil and that snake, lol) and Frances of Assisi on the other side were made by Heinrich Apel in 1972.

Autumn in the Mecklenbruch Bog

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I said I would return to the Mecklenbruch Bog in autumn, and I did. The atmosphere was pretty different though it was a sunny day as well. So here are some photos.

A view from the tower

Somehow, autumn fits bogs and moors even better than late spring. The colours were just lovely, all those shades of yellow and brown, and a deep blue sky mirroring in the dark lakes.

Another view, to the other side

I admit it's also a procrastination / placeholder post, for two reasons:

The timber trackway

First, I'm doing Nano again this year. For those who don't know: Nano is a writing marathon that requires you to write 50,000 words on a novel in November. I don't expect to win but I hope it will give me a kickstart - I haven't written much fiction those last months. The forums - if used wisely, lol - are a great place for exchange and encouragement.

One of several little lakes

Second, I am preparing a post or two about the Porta Nigra in Trier, but came across some inconsistencies that need clearing. It's Roman times so I want to present the most likely scenario, but since it's Late Empire I need to do some more research than I had thought (early Empire would be easier because I know more about it). So this post will have to wait a few more days.

The carr in a hazy autumn sun

I took those photos in late October; there isn't much sunshine right now. We got the remains of Sandy with wind and rain.

A stand of young birches

So, and now I'll get me some nice spiced tea and delve into the world of the Romans and Germans.

We Interrupt the Regular Schedule

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To announce that Nano is going suprisingly well. I already have more words now than I did at the end of November in my best year (12K in 2008). I got that kickstart I so badly needed, it seems.

Another view from my balcony I took a few days ago

OK, I'm off to do some more mean things to that poor character of mine. *evil grin*

Just Some Fun Pics

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Nano is going surprisingly well. I broke the 20K last night, and that's a lot more than I ever got before, with a few days still to go.

Maybe those lads helped gathering words.

Squirrels; a carving in the Mecklenbruch bog

In honour of a thread in the German forum about various typos that led to unexpected animals (in German, a mistyped end becomes a duck (Ende / Ente) and a robe can easily turn into a seal (Robbe) if you got clumsy fingers), I'll present my readers with some animals carved in wood. Though I'm writing in English - which doesn't mean I escape the typos, on they're not so funny.

An owl guiding the wanderer

There are several carvings in the Meissner Nature Park as well, like this cute owl. Close to the sculpture are signs for the various ways in the area. The third is from the Heldrastein Cliffs.

Family boar on their sunday outing

I've been asked if I would post a snippet from my Nano. Well, not right now, the stuff is too rough to share, but maybe when I've polished a suitable scene. I don't want the writing to take over this blog again, so I may post it elsewhere and only link to it. I'll think about it.

Cat sculpture on a rooftop, seen in Riga

For now, there is another five days to get some more words. Is anyone else busy writing, though maybe not doing Nano?

Nano 2012 is Over

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I finished with a whopping 26,507 words which is a bit more than a half-Nano, and I admit I'm proud I got so much. I thank everyone for their comments and encouragement during November.

Now I can only hope that the impetus will carry on beyond November and I'll get back into a habit of writing regularly again, albeit not fully that many words.

Here's one last fun post before I get back to more serious stuff, brought to you by the Tourist Management St.Petersburg. *grin*

Kiosks with kitsch

At every important stop of the tour busses, every place listed in the guide books, the Russians have managed to squeeze in a row or two of vendor booths selling all sorts of pseudo-folkloristic Russian kitsch. You don't even need rubel, they accept euros and dollars as well.

Musical boxes with little cathedrals and matrioshka dolls with Michael Jackson

That stuff is low quality, too, often plastic and with lots of fake gold colour. There were fake fur caps, too. If you want the real thing, you better find a genuine store. The whole display was so horribly kitsch-y it was fun, so I snapped a few shots.

Christmas decoration

Fitting the time, here are some really overdecorated Christmas trees. *grin* You can buy them year round in St.Petersburg.

I put out some of my Advent / Christmas decorations today, but those are the nice, handcrafted items from the Ore Mountains (Erzgebirge) and Sweden I've blogged about a few times.

Advent in Germany

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With some winter wonderland to boot. Though I don't think it will last long; snow seldom does around here.

View from my balcony a few minutes ago

Inside, it's nice and warm, the candles are burning and I got some hot tea and ginger cake. The writing still goes reasonably well though not at Nano speed. And of course, there are plotholes you can drive a truck through which I now have to fill in.

Christmas decoration from the Ore Mountains

The balcony is snowed in, too, but there is not enough to make a miniature snowman. Well, the winter isn't over yet and maybe we will get some more snow. With that backdrop I should write winter scenes, but no, right now I have a character fleeing through the Syrian desert; those damn Romans got around too much. ;-)

Snow on the winter plants on my balcony

I put up some decoration in the sleeping room as well. I know I blogged about these things before, but they are pretty every year and I got some new readers. Like Kasia, and Annika, another War of the Roses and Other Medieaval Fun-afficionado whom I met during Nano and who started a blog in November. *waves hello*

Christmas decoration from Sweden

The flip side of this time is that the town is always crowded with people and grocery shopping is even less fun than the rest of the year.

The Unfinished Gate - The Porta Nigra in Trier, Part 1

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Salvete amici, it's me, Aelius Rufus. Yes, it is quite some time you last saw me, and I had to have a word with Gabriele about the lack of Roman posts. She's always traveling to those barbarian places, first the Mare Suebicum and then into the lands of the Hermunduri and other, more obscure tribes. Really, no sane Roman goes there. And those posts about old rocks - not even the Greek philosophers believe the world is that old. And when she's not traveling, she's writing. Fiction, of all things, and not even trying to disguise it as a true account. ;-)

But well, I got her to transfer what I told her about the Porta Nigra in Augusta Treverorum into this funny thing with the screen which everyone everywhere can read, she says. Oh, and she also tells me she has not many pictures this time, because it was the first time she used that little picture box and didn't take as many magic drawings as she does now.

Porta Nigra, the town side

Ok, so here we go. The Porta Nigra is one of the best preserved gates from Antiquity and the people in Augusta Treverorum are still proud of it; not to mention visitors who want to see the gate leave some money in the town.

Like most other buildings, the gate dates to the 2nd century AD and was planned as part of the expansion program under the Emperor Antoninus Pius. At the time, the town was walled in and got five flashy gates of which only the Porta Nigra survived. I've already mentioned Tony's construction activities in this post.

The Porta Nigra wasn't black back then, though instead the nice cream colour of sandstone, but all the smoke tinted it dark (environment problems are not a 21st century thing). Of course, it wasn't called the Black Gate back then, either (and why does Gabriele now murmur something about Mordor?) - the name is first mentioned in 1041. The original name was likely Gate to Confluentes (Koblenz), and for a time it was called Porta Martis, Gate of Mars.

It looks huge, but the size is actually Standard Roman Din-A-Gate: 36 metres wide and 21.5 metres deep in the centre of the oblong towers; the towers were 32 metres high (the west tower has still almost the original size), the middle building, the gate proper, 24.5 metres. The foundations are 4 metres wide, the walls up to 3.4 m. The gate was integrated into the town wall (which - another number for Constance *grin* - was 6.4 km long), the battlements of the walls ran at 6 metres above ground and were accessible from the gate towers.

From the landside, the Porta Nigra with its protruding towers must have looked impressive to visitors and enemies alike.

The inner yard between the two towers is framed by two galleries which could be reached by timber staircases - one of those has been repaired for visitors to get to the galleries. The landside gates could be locked by a portcullis. The inner gates should have been protected by wooden doors but those were never installed. If finished, the whole contraption would have kept enemies who breached the outer gate locked inside the yard where they could have been shot by missiles from the galleries. But as it is, the inhabitants of Augusta Treverorum could be glad no enemy ever made it through the gate because else they'd just have run onward into town.

They might even have found shelter from the rain, since the main roads in Trier, including the one leading off the Porta Nigra, were framed by pergolas. That's more than you get today in the way of comfort.

The arcades around the yard (first floor)

The missing doors are not the only unfinished part of the Porta Nigra. A lot of the large sandstone squared stones (weighing up to 6 tons) that were used for the facing have only been roughly hewn on the outside. The ground facets where they fit together have been well smoothed, though, so that the stones stay put without mortar or opus cementitium. The stones had been worked with water powered bronze saws as some traces show. Iron clamps babbitted in lead had been added nevertheless, but those have been plucked out during the Middle Ages; it made no difference to the walls.

From the town side, the gate would almost have looked like a palace, but most of the decorative pillars, capitals and bases are only roughly hewn as well, which is surprising in a grand building like the Porta Nigra which was clearly intended to impress visitors and show off the wealth of the town magistrates.

The town walls, of which almost nothing remains save some traces only the archaeologists from Gabriele's time can read (how do they do that; some sort of time traveling?), had been erected on a grand concept, too, with two facing walls filled by the usual Roman mix of mortar and ashlar. The care taken with those walls clearly shows that they had been built in a peaceful time. One part of the wall (45 metres in the south side) remained unfinished to give access to the area of potteries outside town, and that part was later built in a much more haphazard manner. Some of Gabriele's ancestors were milling outside Trier then. The walls were additionally protected by a series of trenches.

So the question remains why the Porta Nigra has never really been finished. That includes trying to find the exact date when it was built, which seems to be a bit of a puzzle for those archeologists. But there are a few hints. The gate is connected to the town walls, and among the rubble pottery shards from the second half of the second century AD have been found. That puts the date in the time of the reigns of Antoninus Pius (138 - 161; more likely the second half), Marcus Aurelius (161-180), Commodus (180 - 192) and maybe Septimius Severus (193 - 211; likely the first years). A few statistics have been calculated about the time it would have taken to erect the gate, but I'm prone to go for one of the longer estimates; governmental projects were never finished in time. I see Gabriele nods.

One of the reasons could have been that the magistrate of Trier ran out of money and none was forthcoming from the emperors, either (Marcus Aurelius was busy fighting the Marcomanni at the Danube among others, and Septimius Severus had to fight contenders for the position of emperor).

The arcades around the yard, closeup

But it's not impossible that inimical actions got in the way of fine-tuning those stones and pillars. In 162, the Chatti crossed the Rhine and raided the province of Germania Superior (around Mainz, for those who slept during their geography lessons), in 175, the Chauci in northern Germany did the same and raided the provinces of Germania Inferior and Gallia Belgica, to which Trier belongs. The inhabitants of the town may have thought it more prudent to dig another trench and fill in that gap in the wall than polishing a few decorative pillars. If the Chauci ever laid siege to Trier, they didn't succeed; siege warfare was not the strength of the Germanic tribes. (I know, Aelius, we would have needed Constance and her trebuchets, lol.).

The man to repel the Chauci was the governor of Gallia Belgica, Didius Julianus, who was made consul for his gallant defense of the province. He would later become emperor for nine weeks by paying for the job during the Year of the Five Emperors after Commodus' death in AD 192. He was executed by the victorious Septimius Severus.

Another contender for the imperial purple at the time was Clodius Albinus, governor of Britannia. At first, Septimius Severus, who had another rival in the east to deal with, made an agreement with Albinus, offering him the position of caesar and heir, but when he had defeated the rival, he wanted to establish his own sons (the brothers Geta and Caracalla) as heirs. As a consequence, Albinus, who had some support in the Senate in Rome, took his three legions from Britannia and crossed over to Gaul where he was acclaimed emperor by the troops, defeated the legionary legate Virius Lupus, and made his headquarter in Lugdunum (Lyon).

But he failed to gain the alliance of the Rhine legions. The XXII Primigenia stationed in Mainz came to the relief of Trier when Albinus besieged the town in AD 196, and the following year, Albinus was defeated at the Battle of Lugdunum, and either fell or was executed upon orders of Septimius Severus, and condemned to damnatio memoriae, oblivion of memory. Severus also executed some senators who had supported Albinus, and from that time on he was the uncontested emperor.

A sidenote from my time-travelling friend Merlinus: When Albinus took most of the Roman army with him to Gaul, the tribes north of the Hadrian's Wall promptly raided the province, and Severus sent the same Virius Lupus who had been defeated in Gaul, to restore order which he did by buying peace. Not exactly Severus' idea, so he would later come to Britain himself and show those northern tribes what an army looked like.

For some reason, the gate was not finished after those wars, either. Maybe money was indeed the issue then.

And now Gabriele mutters something about 'damn plotbunnies'.
Yes, I do, I don't need a prequel to my story set at the Hadrian's Wall during the time of Septimius Severus, about the wars in Gaul.

Source:
Klaus-Peter Goethert, Römerbauten in Trier. Burgen, Schlösser, Altertümer Rheinland Pfalz, volume 20. Landesmedienzentrum Rheinland-Pfalz, 2005

Merry Christmas

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I wish everyone a Merry Christmas, or Fröhliche Weihnachten.

No candles as illustration this time; I found something a bit different on the Orbit Publisher website.


Not exactly a Roman lorica segmentata dear Santa's wearing, but let's not be picky about the pointy stuff in that bag. My characters will need some, and the picture made me smile.

Happy New Year

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I wish everyone a happy New Year 2013.

Here's a bit of Russian golden splendour to enjoy.

Isaac's Cathedral, detail

It's a ceiling decoration of a side chapel from the Isaac's Cathedral in St.Petersburg. And not the only gilded bit in that one. But other than the kitschy souvenirs, it's real gold this time.

Border Castles and Conflicts - Castle Sichelnstein

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Like most other minor castles I've posted about, the beginnings of the Sichelnstein are shrouded in obscurity and some names that may have been local legend rather than historical. To make things worse, the main source about the castle, the village website and guidebook, get some basic things wrong like misdating the Battle of the Lechfeld (it took place 955, not 933) and burying Otto the Quarrelsome in the wrong place, so I take the information it provides with a spoonful of salt.

The Saxon nobles Asic and Billing mentioned in Carolingian chronicles (811, 813), who fled from their own people and established local holds in the Frankian lands between Kassel and Göttingen, can not be connected with the later Sichelnstein family.

Remains of Sichelnstein Castle

The first person we can trace with more surety is one Wittilo who fought bravely at the Battle of Riade (933, also known as Battle of Merseburg, against the Magyars). King Heinrich I rewarded Wittilo by granting him the Sichelnstein as fief, and dubbing him. The ceremony took place during a diet in the palatine castle of Grona near Göttingen (nothing much remains of it, alas). So Wittilo was likely a ministerialis, a member of the legally unfree but still high ranking men serving in administrative functions at the royal court and as heavy cavalry in war. Heavy cavalry secured the victory at Riade which would have given Wittilo his chance to shine. To grant a ministerialis a fief was indeed a reward, though it is possible that Wittilo already had the usufruct of the land to pay for his armour, and he may have taken the name of it. An additional dubbing would enhance his status to free knight.

The castle would not have been the present stone-walled building, but fortified by an earth wall and timber palisade, though the trench may have existed already. The houses were likely half-timbered; perhaps on stone foundations.

Sichelnstein, east wall with door

The feudal relationship was renewed under Otto I after Heinrich's death in 936, which means the fief was not allodial and likely indeed came to Wittilo first, and not to some obscure Carolingian ancestor.

The Sichelnstein family has left a few traces in chartes, several of them issued in Corvey monastery, so there may have been a connection (probably younger sons ending up there a few times) but nothing spectacular. When the empress Kunigunde, wife of Heinrich II, founded the Benedictine abbey in nearby Kaufungen in 1017, one Bardo of Sichelnstein was among the witnesses. Today, Kaufungen lies in Hessia, but at the time Hessia didn't exist as political entity (the landgraviate of Hessia was created in 1292); the land was likely crown land.

Walk along the northern curtain wall

The next fact we can prove is that the last of the Sichelnstein line, one Count Bardo, died in 1239 and was buried in Wahlshausen monastery at the Fulda river; the church still exists today. He may have been the same who killed his wife in 1189 but we can't say for sure. The Bardo who killed his wife had to answer at the diet of Fulda where King Heinrich VI (the son of Friedrich Barbarossa) first had him condemned to death but pardoned him to stay a prisoner at the monastery of Corvey. Bardo may have later returned to Sichelnstein, or the Bardo then living there was a relative. But the questionable website got one thing wrong: that King Heinrich gave the Sichelnstein fief to Heinrich the Lion. The two men did reconciliate at the diet of Fulda after Heinrich the Lion's return from exile, and he was given back the allodial possessions of the Welfen family, but he was not granted any new fiefs. So if he got the Sichelnstein lands and castle, they must have been part of his allodial possession at that point (he'd likely confirmed the Sichelnstein rights to hold the fief from him). Because of the paucity of surviving documents, we can't trace the exact time when the Sichelnstein came into the hands of the Welfen

Sunlight sparks on the curtain wall

The Sichelnstein lands were definitely in possession of the Welfen family in 1372, when Duke Otto I of Braunschweig-Göttingen (our friend Otto 'the Quarrelsome') who had inherited the patchwork of Welfen lands in Lower Saxony, fortified the castle during his war with the landgrave of Hessia. Otto's mother was the daughter of Landgrave Heinrich II of Hessia who left no male heirs in direct line, so Otto claimed the lands. But so did several others, esp another nephew of the late landgrave Heinrich, and war broke out. Otto lost that war.

The Sichelnstein remained in Welfen hands. 1379, it was given to Otto's second wife Margarethe of Berg as dowry and widow seat. Margarethe survived her husband who died in 1394, by almost 50 years and lived most of the time in Castle Hardeg, but she visited the Sichelnstein a few times.

The trench at the western side

Later, the castle came into possession of the landgraves of Hessia. Maybe Otto's successors sold it or pawned it out; money was pretty tight in that branch of the Welfen family. It was probably damaged during the Thirty Years War and then abandoned, like so many other castles. Later it was used as quarry by the surrounding villages where you can hunt the stones in various old buildings.

Today only the lower part of the curtain wall remains, which is still a formidable sight. The interior contains the set up of a wooden stage and can be protected by a canvas roof; the castle is used for concerts in summer.

Seen from the south-west

The castle had once been surrounded by deep trench and only accessible via a drawing bridge that lead to the only gate in the east wall. Parts of the trench can still be seen at the western side of the castle; it still looks difficult to get across.

The groundplan of the castle shows an unusual horseshoe shape with the eastern side being straight and the western front curved. The curtain wall, built of basalt stones from the nearby Staufenberg Hill, still rises to 7-10 metres. Since it has no windows and the first traces of holdings for beams and a fireplace are at 10 metres heigth, the castle must once have been much higher, probably with half-timbered buildings like a palas sitting atop the stone walls like in this example (Falkenstein Castle in the Harz Mountains). Whether or not there had been towers can't be said for sure, but there likely was a battlement at the level of the stone walls since there are remains of arrow slits in some places.

Another view of the walls

The Sichelnstein was not a very large castle, but obviously strong enough to serve Otto the Quarrelsome as basis for his war with Hessia, so it must have looked more forbidding once, and you could cram a garrison inside if the men weren't wild about comfort.

Since the door was locked I could only peek through the grille to get a view of the empty interior. The height may have made up for the limited ground space.

Russian Splendour - The Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg

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While I'm waiting for a book about the history of Göttingen that should put some light onto Otto of Braunschweig-Göttingen (Otto the Quarrelsome) for a post about him, here's some more Russian shiny stuff for you to enjoy; some photos I took of and inside the Isaac's Cathedral - Isaakievskiy Sobor in St.Petersburg.

St.Petersburg, Isaac's Cathedral

Let's start with some numbers for Constance. *grin* The cathedral is one of the largest sacral buildings with a cupola to be found in the world. It's 111 metres long, 97 metres wide and 101.50 metres high; the diameter of the cupola measures 26 metres. The interior encompasses 10,767 square metres and can hold 14,000 people. When I visited it, it looked like there were almost that many tourists.

Detail of one of the bronze doors

The cathedral, which is officially called Cathedral of the Holy Isaac of Dalmatia, was commissioned by Tsar Alexander I to commemorate the victory over Napoleon. It replaced an earlier church - the fourth in line on the site. The oldest, a timber building from 1707, was built by Peter the Great and dedicated to the saint that shared his birthday.

Isaac's Cathedral, interior

There was a special commission to decide on several designs submitted by architects, but in the end Alexander pulled the tsar, and his favourite, Auguste de Montferrand, won. The cathedral took 40 years to construct, from 1818 - 1858; interrupted several times because of static problems (ok, then there's still hope for the Berlin Airport).

Interior, view towards the iconostasis

It was not easy to take photos while staying close enough to my group not to lose them in the whirl of people and trying to avoid having a clutter of tourists on every pic, but I snatched some decent ones nevertheless. It's the disadvantage of group tours but without that I would not have gotten around in Petersburg in the first place. I visited the other towns on the cruise on my own, though.

Iconostasis, closeup

The splendid interior is dominated by ten huge columns of malachite; the floor, pilasters and other decorative elements are sculpted from various sorts of marble and granite from all over Russia; the walls and cupola are decorated with semi-precious stones, gold, and even gemstones, as well as large frescoes and mosaics by famous Russian artists. The three bronze gates were designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti, the columns of the porticos in front of the doors are granite.

View into one of the side chapels

The main iconostasis is also framed by malachite and lapis lazuli pillars The icons in the iconostasis as well as the other ones spread aroud in the cathedral have darkened over time and I only got few decent photos. It was another disadvantage of the crowds, the lack to really contemplate the paintings. While all that gold and marble stuff is a bit overdone for my taste, some of the icons were beautiful.

The cupola (slighly blurred because I was in a hurry)

During Soviet times, the cathedral became a Museum of Atheism, with a Foucault pendulum hanging from the main cupola. During WW2, it served as storage room for objects of art from the palaces in and around St.Petersburg. The dome of the cupola had been painted grey to prevent detection by German aircrafts; nevertheless, the cathedral suffered some damage but less badly than some other historical buildings. After the war, the cathedral was again reverted into a museum, this time about the History of Religion.

One of the icons

Today, the cupola sparkles golden in the sunshine again, and the interior has been renovated as well. The cathedral is still a museum, but no longer a themed one; it's simply the Isaac's Cathedral. It is still used for services on feast days, though.

Russian Splendour - The Smolny Cathedral in St. Petersburg

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Cathedrals are among the architectonic highlights of St.Petersburg and so the bus tours through town try to cover as many of them as they can cram into 3 or 4 hours. One photo stop was at the Smolny Cathedral and Convent, a group of Baroque buildings that's actually not so overdone with gold and marble, but has a pretty white and blue colour scheme.

Smolny Cathedral, St.Petersburg

The convent, placed at a bank of the river Neva, was originally built as retreat for Elizabeth, daughter of Tsar Peter the Great, who had been excluded from succession to the throne. But when Ivan VI was overthrown by his own royal guards, Elizabeth became tzar and had a whole row of palaces to live in.

In former times, the place lay outside the city and was the site where pitch for ship building was processed; the name Smolny derives form the Russian word for pitch - smola.

View of the cathedral and some convent buildings

This one was taken from out of the bus, thus the slightly green tinge. But I like the angle so I included it. You may notice the many cars on some of the photos - yeah, those are a pest in St.Petersburg. Six lane roads get blocked by them and there's always a concert of horn beeps. Though the main problem and bottlenecks are the bridges; not many of them can take major traffic, and Petersburg is criss-crossed by rivers and canals.

(one of the convent buildings; detail)

Work on the convent continued under Elizabeth's patronage, planned as combination of a Russian Orthodox nunnery and a girl's school which would become the first in the Russian Empire.

The convent was built by the Italian architect Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli (1700 - 1771) whose family had come to Russia while he was still a boy. The father had been invited to St.Petersburg by Tsar Peter the Great, and designed the Winter Palace (Eremitage), the Great Palace in Peterhof ouside town and the Yekaterisnky Palace in Tsarskoye Selo (today known as Pushkin), as well as some other Baroque buildings.

The son followed the father's footsteps. The cathedral and convent of Smolny were entirely his own project on which he worked from 1748 to 1764. But the cathedral was not yet finished when Elizabeth died in 1762.

Her daughter-in-law and eventual her successor (after her husband; Peter III, had been deposed and died under somewhat mysterious circumstances) was Catherine I. She did not like the Baroque style and so money for the cathedral project more or less dried up. Rastrelli could never build the bell tower he had planned and which was to be the highest tower in St.Petersburg, and the interior of the catherdral remained unfinished as well. Rastrelli left Russia in October 1763.

One of the convent buildings, seen from the yard side

But the convent buildings were put to good use as the Smolny Institute for Noble Girls and the Alexandra Institute for Burgeois Girls, the first schools for women in Russia. Later, the buildings were also used as fitting residence for rich widows. During the WW1, some of them served as lazarett.

Some convent buildings seen from the outside

The cathedral itself had never been used and fell into disrepair. At the time of Tsar Nicholas I it looked so desolate that he commissioned Vassily Stasov, a Russian architect, to repair and finish the building; a task that was completed in July 1835, when the cathedral was finally consecrated. Stasov added some neo-classical features in the taste of his time, but those are mostly visible in the interior which we didn't get to see due to lack of time.

Another view of the cathedral

After the revolution, the church was deprived of its religious furnishings by the Sovyet authorities. The convent buildings became the city headquarters of the communist party. In 1982, the cathedral was made into a concert hall, a function it keeps until today. The other buildings now house government institutions and some faculties of the St.Petersburg State University, namely the departments for sociology and political sciences. So there's some continuity, in a way.

More Neva Impressions

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First I had to fight a nasty crud and then there was a lot of stress at my job (and half of the staff sick with the same crud), so I didn't update my blog, nor do I have time for a long, reasearch-heavy post. But since my readers seem to like St.Petersburg, here are some more photos of that town - some lovely views of the Neva river.

View over the Neva from the Peter and Paul Fortress

The Neva is only 74 km long, running from Lake Ladoga to the Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, but its water discharge puts it on place three after the Volga and the Danube. The river is navigable throughout and part of the Volga-Baltic waterway which already the Vikings used.

The water flow from Lake Ladoga to the Neva is pretty consistant all year round, so the floods that so often hit St.Petersburg are caused by the inflow of the Baltic Sea during storms. The Neva freezes from December to mid-April, in summer the temperature peaks at 17-20°C.

View from the Stock Exchange place to the Peter and Paul Fortress

The last steps in the formation of the river were the glaciers of the last Ice Age and their retreat which caused the Littorina Sea to form, 7-9 metres above present sea level. A wide strait between the delta and the future Lake Ladoga was covered by water; the former bed of the Tosna river. But the land around the lake rose faster and thus a closed reservoir developed (the race of seal particular to Lake Ladoga is a witness from that time). The rising level of the lake flooded a moraine ridge and ran into the valley at the Ivanovo rapids, the modern Neva with its tributaries Tosna and Mga formed about 2000 BC. The average decline of the river is 4.2 metres.

View from the Stock Exchange to the Palace Embankment

The development of St.Petersburg altered the hydrological network of the delta. The town was founded in 1703, and Peter the Great did not care much that he picked a low and swampy area for his much needed Baltic Sea harbour. Tons of earth had to be moved which was used to raise the city; countless timber posts had to be dug into the ground, and canals had to be built for drainage. When the work was completed, the delta of the Neva consisted of 48 canals and rivers, and a hundred islands. Some of the canals were filled in over time so that today only 42 islands remain. A tour through the canals is one of the nicest ways to explore St.Petersburg.

View towards the Eremitage

The area belonged to the realm of Veliky Novgorod, also known as Holmgård in the Norse sagas, since the 9th century; a time when the population was a mix of Slavic and Scandinavian elements, the latter ruling as the Rurikids. Several Norse kings spent a time of exile in Novgorod.

Novgorod had access to the rivers leading south via the river Volkhov / Lake Ilmen, while the route via the Neva / Lake Ladoga went further east; both made Novgorod a trade centre in the Middle Ages. The Hansa League erected their own depedance or kontor, the 'Peterhof', in 1192, thus making the place one of the earliest parts of the rising trade net.

Sunset over the palace embankment

Quarrels and outright war with the Swedes were almost a constant feature of the area. In 1240, Prince Alexander Yaroslavich won a great battle against them which earned him the name Alexander Nevksy; he still features as popular Russian hero. Later, during the Great Northern War 1700-1721, Peter the Great would integrate the lands around the Neva into the Russian Empire and found the town named after him.


White nights at the Neva, with the golden spike of the Admirality in the background
(photo taken from out of the bus)

St.Petersburg became the capital of the Russian Empire in 1712. It was renamed Leningrad after the revolution and suffered a devastating siege during WW2 which was only broken in January 1944. After the glasnost, it regained its old name St.Petersburg. But the white nights at the Neva never changed.
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